South Moravia – a journey through the Czech wine region

Moravia is a wine region in the Czech Republic. If you didn’t know, there is not only beer in the Czech Republic. In the south of the country, specifically in Moravia (a region on the border with Austria and Slovakia) they grow grapes and make good wine. But in Moravia you can see not only vineyards and wineries. A trip to these places is an opportunity to see wonderful nature and UNESCO landmarks.

I suggest a route through the wine region, where you can see the castles of Lednice and Valtice, climb Holy Hill in Mikulov, visit the Archaeological Park in Pavlov and relax at the Nové Mlýny reservoir in the water park Aqualand Moravia. And be sure to visit the cellars and wineries for a wine tasting.

Southern Moravia – here wine is grown

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Moravia is a vast part of the Czech Republic, located on the border with Austria and Slovakia. About 50 years ago, the inhabitants of Southern Moravia passionately argued that they were not Czechs at all, but Moravians. Although they speak Czech (with their own dialect), they don’t differ in appearance. But the “Prazhaks” (residents of the capital) treated them a bit condescendingly. I hope that’s now in the past, but Moravia really is different from classic Czechia.

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Firstly, here the beer culture is less developed – in the south of Moravia everything is planted with vineyards and they make wine – excellent Rieslings, red Pálava and dry white Veltlínské Zelené.

In cellars, instead of food, you will be offered a snack for wine: bread with lard and onions, sausages, salty sticks or chips, sometimes smoked meats and homemade pickles. Everywhere you will be given a taste of the wine before you decide to buy a bottle for yourself.

Secondly, Southern Moravia even outwardly somewhat resembles the Italian Tuscany: on the hills, straight rows of vineyards stretch out, among which old chapels are nestled here and there.

When is the best time to plan a trip to Moravia?

I would say – it will be interesting anytime. But I liked it there more in the summer – I traveled in Moravia in August and in June. In June it was very beautiful – the fields were still filled with green wheat, it was not too hot to explore castles and towns. In August, we calmly camped in tents at great campsites, which reduced the cost of accommodation, which is highest during the peak season.

In spring Moravia is covered with bright greenery, its rolling hills bloom with rapeseed – it is incredibly beautiful. This period is especially loved by photographers who come for beautiful shots.

In autumn the vineyards turn red, and Moravia hosts young wine festivals. It’s very interesting here, especially in September – the burčák festival, when in the towns on the squares people drink burčák – a young wine, which cheers up everyone taking part in the festivities.

In winter Moravia might seem gray and not interesting. But if you plan to visit wine cellars to taste new and more matured wines – you definitely won’t be bored!

Pálava and Mikulov Region

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Pavlovské vrchy or Pálava is a limestone mountain massif located in the south of Moravia. It stretches around Mikulov and right up to the border with Austria. Its highest peak is Děvín (549 m above sea level), which includes Děvičky hill (424 m above sea level) with the ruins of Dívčí Hrad castle, and to the south – the picturesque town of Mikulov, and archeological monuments from the era of mammoth hunters are located near the town of Pavlov.

My first trip to wine Czechia was precisely to Pálava. We toured all around the Nové Mlýny reservoir, spent the night in Pavlov to visit its wine cellars. We visited Mikulov and took a trip to the Lednice-Valtice castle-garden complex. We also hiked the trails around the hills, enjoying the vineyards of this region. And, of course, we drank local wine.

Which varieties are grown in Pálava?

  • Pálava – a typical local and very popular variety, was created by crossing the white varieties Tramín rosévy and Müller Thurgau. But every winemaker treats it their own way, so you definitely won’t taste the same wine twice.
  • Moreover, the limestone soil of Pálava is the cradle of unique Welschrieslings with a delicate mineral aftertaste.
  • You should also pay attention to Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.
  • In the direction of Mikulov, the Müller Thurgau variety is very popular, while in Valtice, the preferred varieties are Neuburská and Sylvaner Green.

Mikulov

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The small town of Mikulov and its surroundings are even called – little Italy. It is located just five kilometers from the Austrian border. Here, the rolling fields are incredibly beautiful. And the cozy and intimate Mikulov welcomes visitors with cellars filled with bottles of chilled wine.

What to do in Mikulov

Mikulov Castle is a place you absolutely shouldn’t miss when discovering the region’s beauty. It is one of the main landmarks of the town of Mikulov – the center of the eponymous wine-producing region. The castle was owned by two of the most important noble families in Southern Moravia: Liechtenstein and Dietrichstein, and, above all, the latter made the greatest contribution to the development of the town and the castle.

Admire the charming French park with its fountain, romantic corners with benches, ornate golden gates, and Baroque architecture. Don’t forget to visit the castle cellars: there you will find the largest barrel in Central Europe from 1643.

Tip: The castle is open from April until the end of October – you can explore it with or without a guide. The gardens can comfortably be toured even with a stroller, but the ascent to the castle can be more challenging.

Holy Hill

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The first thing I recommend is to climb Holy Hill (Svatý kopeček) – 363 m above sea level. This is one of the Pavlov Hills that complements the picturesque landscape of Mikulov. The tourist trail leading to its summit has many switchbacks, along which there are stops in the form of Baroque chapels of the so-called Stations of the Cross. On the top of the hill stands the Church of St. Sebastian (Kaple svatého Šebestiána)

Then, following the red tourist trail markers, climb the hill where the ruins of Kozí Grádek are located – an artillery tower with a 15th-century trail.

And then head to another tourist attraction of Mikulov, namely the Tourold Cave and Tourold Educational Trail. The cave is located 37 m underground and hides a emerald-blue lake. In the cave you will also find specific geological formations resembling marine corals. The cave is open from April to November. The temperature is consistently 7–9°C, so be sure to dress accordingly.

The educational trail on Tourold Hill is 300 m long and is freely accessible year-round. In fact, the trail is a geological park where you can see 17 types of rocks characteristic of the Czech Republic. During the tour you will need to climb 350 steps, so be sure to consider your physical fitness.

Where to stay in Mikulov

  • Mikulov – Inn – hotel with wine cellar – the hotel has nice rooms. There is free parking and a restaurant on the property, they offer a delicious breakfast. Beautiful and romantic courtyard where you can drink a bottle of wine and watch the sky. There is also a jacuzzi and a beautiful small garden on the top level.
  • Guesthouse Mikuláš Mikulov – free parking in the city center – The location of the hotel is 200 m from the castle. Modern, stylish, clean with excellent service and convenient parking. The room has a large selection of coffee, tea, different types of sugar, utensils, nice furniture, straightforward TV, comfortable beds. WI-FI is lightning-fast, and the price is very reasonable.
  • Hotel Ryzlink – a nice, quiet place with a wonderful view but very close to the center. Has its own parking. Part of the territory is a cozy restaurant with delicious food, local wines and great service.

Pavlov

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Pavlov is a small but very charming town where on every street, almost every house contains a cellar. People come here to taste wine, combining it with walks on the hills, which offer wonderful views of the Nové Mlýny reservoir.

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There are so many cellars in Pavlov that one day won’t be enough for you. Of course, stay here longer to have time to taste at least a small part of the gems that the region offers. Start with the Paulus Winery (Na Cimbuří 692/01, 692 01 Pavlov-Mikulov na Moravě), managed by Penzion u Jozífka, and hides its treasures in a historic wine cellar, where you can order a wine tasting. And afterwards, head to Zaječí for more tasting. There you will find Pension Zaječák, where you can not only taste but also have unlimited access to wine for the duration of your stay.

What to do in Pavlov

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Head for the Pálava peaks – Pavlovské vrchy, the limestone mountain massif that stretches around Mikulov up to the Austrian border. The highest peak is Děvín (549 m above sea level), which includes the Děvičky Hill (424 m above sea level) with ruins of the Dívčí Hrad castle.

Try the Devín informational trail, which connects Pavlov and Klentnice with the summit of Devín. The circular educational trail is about 11 km long. It comprises 15 stops and is freely accessible to tourists all year round.

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Dívčí Hrad – the ruins of the Dívčí Castle, which is also called Mayberk or Maidenburg, stand on a steep hill on the northeastern edge of the Pavlov Hills above the villages of Dolní Věstonice and Pavlov. From the ruins of the castle, there is a beautiful view of the Nové Mlýny reservoir and the Moravian landscapes.

Another interesting attraction is the Archeopark Pavlov, an amazing modern museum where you can learn about the lives of mammoth hunters. The exhibition, using modern technologies, is located in a unique building situated underground. You will learn many interesting facts about the Paleolithic and mammoth hunters.

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If you want to swim – do you like playing in the pools, on the slides, and also relaxing in open thermal pools? They’re already waiting for you at Aqualand Moravia, where you can enjoy thermal pools with temperatures of 32-37 °C and great views of Pálava.

Where to stay in Pavlov

  • Pension Restaurace Florián – a quiet and clean guesthouse for a reasonable price, located in the center of Pavlov.
  • Pálavské Vinohrady – An absolutely amazing, luxurious, spacious, and comfortable property, situated in a picturesque location among typical Moravian cellars with incredible and wonderful wine. The terrace view of Nový Mlýn amazes, especially at 5 a.m., watching the gorgeous sunrise.
  • Wellness Hotel IRIS – A very nice place, a bit off the road, with very clean spacious rooms. It has its own spa complex, including a sauna (separately paid for).

Lednice and Valtice

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After we explored Mikulov and Pavlov, we decided to go to Lednice-Valtice. What attracted me there was the opportunity to visit the castle-park complex.

The Lednice–Valtice area is one of the rarest gems of historical and cultural wealth in the Czech Republic. You can explore its beauty on foot or by bicycle, and you will definitely enjoy the wine trails.

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The Lednice–Valtice area covers an area of almost 300 km² and borders Austria and the Pálava region. You could call this territory a huge English park – here you’ll see Baroque architecture, a Neo-Gothic castle, and beautiful small buildings in a romantic style.

This impressive mosaic of parks, gardens, ponds, rivers, and forests, complemented by numerous statues, castles, temples, chapels, and colonnades, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1996.

And the wine? In the evening I recommend going to the wine cellars to enjoy a wine tasting after long walks in the parks and castles of Moravia.

What to see in Lednice-Valtice

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In general, there are dozens of wonderful castles in Southern Moravia. Some of the most beautiful: Valtice and Lednice – the former properties of the richest princely family in Europe, the Liechtensteins, located near Mikulov.

Start exploring, for example, with Lednice Castle, where one of the most beautiful castle parks is located. Stunning gardens and a huge area covered with lakes and groves, where hunting lodges and various buildings are built, including a minaret, an aqueduct, a greenhouse with flowers blooming all year round, gardens, and even rivers. This is the largest park complex in Europe, and it is beautiful both in summer and winter. From the castle to the minaret, you can take a walk of about an hour (cycling in the park is prohibited), or you can take a boat ride along the river.

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Attached to the castle is a large historic greenhouse almost 100 meters long. You will feel like you are in the tropics among countless types of exotic plants. The plants here are mixed so that there is always something blooming. In addition to the greenhouse, it’s worth exploring the huge castle park with rare trees, ponds, and interesting buildings. On the castle grounds you can ride a carriage or watch a demonstration of birds of prey.

Note: Open daily from May–August from 9:00 to 17:00.

Reistna colonnade

Head along the vineyards from Valtice to the Reistna colonnade, from where you will have a truly wonderful view of the surroundings. The colonnade was built by the famous general of the Napoleonic era, Johann I of Liechtenstein, as a memorial to his father and brothers.

During the castle tour you will see the princely apartments of Franz I of Liechtenstein. The herb garden will delight both children and adults – in the themed flower beds you’ll find 300 types of herbs which are used not only for medicinal purposes. Kids will have fun in the sandbox with toys, and on warm summer days can water the flower beds with small watering cans. Meanwhile, adults can relax on a chaise lounge in the cherry orchard or use the resting area with tables.

Where to stay in Lednice-Valtice

  • Hotel Galant Lednice – the hotel is excellently located right opposite Lednice Castle and its gardens. There are several on-site restaurants within walking distance. It has its own parking lot and an outdoor pool.
  • Penzion Farma – wonderful location for visiting the castle and its grounds. Buffet breakfast with a wide selection. Beautiful garden with a children’s playground and a pond for fish behind the guesthouse.

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