Val d’Orcha – the heart of Tuscany, here are the most beautiful landscapes, here they make the most delicious wine and cheese, and press olive oil. Its landscapes are hills and mountains, where on every little peak there is, if not a town with its fortress and tower, then a villa or a farm.
Fields, vineyards and olive groves stretch 360 degrees. The villas are reached by winding paths planted with ancient cypresses. Every hill, sown with wheat or rapeseed, comes to life at the slightest breath of wind, and it seems that this fertile land breathes, absorbing the sun, rain and fog.
I advise you to read: How to rent a car in Italy – personal experience
The entire area is dotted with small ancient towns: Montepulciano makes the oldest ruby-colored wine in Italy, the walls of Pienza offer stunning views of the valley, and the local Pecorino cheese can simply drive you crazy.
I’ve been here twice in different seasons – by car and on foot. And I’m ready to come back again, because it’s not for nothing that the Val d’Orcia valley was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Where is the Val d’Orcia valley located?
The Val d’Orcia valley is a rural landscape of hills and valleys stretching south from Siena to Monte Amiata, located in southern Tuscany. In fact, the Val d’Orcia valley is on the southern border between Tuscany and Lazio.
Much of this landscape is rolling hills covered with fields, vineyards and olive groves. Ancient towns such as Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia, Montalcino, Bagno Vignoni and Radicofani are built on the hilltops.
Now the Val d’Orcia valley – part of it 66,000 hectares is protected as the Parco Artistico Naturale e Culturale della Val d’Orcia, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The region produces wine, of which Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are the most prized, as well as olives, fruit and other crops. Sheep graze in the meadows, and their milk is used to produce pecorino cheese, for which Pienza is particularly famous.
How to get to Val d’Orcia
All the towns of the valley are within easy reach of Siena. The towns of San Quirico d’Orcia and Montalcino are 40 km to the south, while the most distant, Radicofani, is 72 km to the south.
By Car
The best way to get to Val d’Orcia and its outlying areas is by car. We drove here in our own car.
But if you are flying into Italy, you can do so in a rental car. The best options are to fly into Rome, Pisa or Florence – these are the closest international airports to the valley.
- From Rome, about two hours to Pienza on the A1 motorway, the entrance to the valley is in the town of Chiusi-Chianciano Terme.
- From Florence, approximately 1.5 km along the A1 to the entrance to the valley via Betolle.
- From Pisa – 2.5 hours, first along the A11, then the transition to the A1 highway – entrance to the valley through Betolle.
- The trip from Siena takes less than an hour on the road – SR2.
Driving around the region on scenic two-lane roads is a pleasure. The valley is quite compact – towns and viewpoints are located close to each other. So once you are in the valley, you won’t have to spend much time driving.
Where rent a car:
If you are planning to rent a car, I also recommend checking prices on RentalCars. This is an online aggregator that includes offers from all the major international rental companies, as well as many smaller local agencies, which often have much better prices. It is now owned by Booking.com — a familiar and reputable brand with transparent and adequate prices.
By public transport
Traveling by public transport in the Val d’Orcia valley is very inconvenient. There are no train stations here (the nearest one is located outside – in the city of Chianciano Terme). Then you either have to look for buses, which run quite infrequently and not through, or look for a taxi.
When I was traveling on foot through Tuscany (I recommend reading about it – Via Francigena – Italian Camino, details of the route from Lucca to Rome), I had to look for a bus from Gallina to Radicofani. It’s quite difficult, because the buses almost never connect, tickets are only sold online, and the schedule is quite unclear even on Google.
Therefore, I advise you to think ten times before you dare to travel around this area by public transport. It’s a real test!
City and winery tours
If you don’t have a car, or if you want to sample all the great wine at the wineries you’ll be passing, the easiest way to visit the Val d’Orcia is on a guided tour. While there are many large bus tours that will take you to several of the towns in Val d’Orcia, most unfortunately won’t give you a chance to get out into the countryside.
Therefore, choose private tours.
When is the best time to visit Val d’Orcia?
I have been to the Val d’Orcia valley twice: the first time in May, when the valley is covered with green wheat, and the second time in autumn, when the ripe grapes are harvested, the fields are already harvested and October. Both times were beautiful in their own way and I really liked them both times.
Late spring and summer are the most popular times to visit, when it’s great to walk, bike, visit vineyards, or sit by the pool at one of the many country hotels.
In addition, in the summer there are no such crowds of tourists as in Florence or Siena. You do not feel like in the Italian seaside resorts, where there is no place to put a towel on the sand. There are large spaces and plenty of space, for traveling between cities is the perfect time. In the evenings, most tourists gather in small towns in restaurants for dinner – so book in advance.
Autumn in the valley is very pleasant, the temperature reaches 25-30℃ until October. By visiting the valley you can see the wine harvest. But swimming pools in campsites and villas are already closed at this time – keep this in mind.
Winter in southern Tuscany is usually wet and cool. The towns seem especially cozy and atmospheric at this time. Many hotels and restaurants remain open, but these beautiful landscapes are gray and slightly gloomy, covered in fog. On the other hand, it is a good time to enjoy a bath in the hot springs of the Val d’Orcia valley.
How much time to plan for a visit to Val d’Orcia
Most travelers come to the valley for a day – as part of an excursion from Siena or Florence. This is quite possible, if you do not intend to spend more time admiring the wonderful views and nature of this area. In a day you will have time to visit a winery or two, as well as run a couple of streets of Pienza and one or two other towns in the valley.
But I recommend spending more time here to feel the rhythm of the valley, to stop the rush of travel a bit. It’s a great place to settle in for a week or two because there’s so much to do here.
You can easily spend a day walking from Montalcino to San Quirco d’Orcia. Or take a bike ride from Pienza to Montichiello. Plan one day to bathe in the thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni or Bagni San Filippo. One day to take a leisurely stroll through the vineyards, tasting wines and local cuisine.
Therefore, plan at least 2-4 days – this is my advice for those who want to immerse themselves in the joys of rural recreation.
The region is also a convenient starting point for visiting other parts of Tuscany. While in the Val d’Orcia valley, we managed to visit Siena, and took one day to go to the sea – it was still cold to swim in May, but we enjoyed a picnic on the beach.
Where to stay in Val d’Orcia
There are so many small towns in the valley that you want to visit – you can stay overnight in any of them. Or in agroturismo – private mini-farms where vegetables, fruits, livestock are grown, and also offer rooms for tourists who want to experience the calm and delicious Tuscan life.
You can be sure that wherever you stay in Val d’Orcia, your accommodation will be full of character, as many are set in old farmhouses set in picturesque countryside or in centuries-old houses in attractive towns.
Agritourism is, in my opinion, the best accommodation option to immerse yourself in the rural life of Tuscany. If you are planning a trip in the summer, choose an agritourism with swimming pools, because it can be very hot here during the day.
B&B – Bad and Breakfast – are actually apartments, but many offer breakfast, which is included in the price. In my opinion, breakfast is an unnecessary option, because in Italy it is great to go somewhere for coffee and cake in the morning. Or make your own coffee with a fresh baguette and pate, because the apartments have their own kitchen.
Hotels, agritourism and B&B in Val d’Orcia?
Here are a few options to show the range of accommodation available. Prices are per night for two guests unless otherwise stated.
- Relais Il Chiostro Di Pienza≫ -The hotel’s incredibly beautiful location in Pienza, rooms with a magnificent view of the Val d’Orcia valley.
- Hotel Palazzuolo≫ – Excellent location in San Quirco d’Orcia, the hotel has a wonderful view from the terrace and its own swimming pool.
- Adler Spa Resort Thermae≫ is a beautiful resort in Bagno Vignoni, which is very well suited for a wellness holiday. The hotel has a gym and fitness center, thermal pools, and several saunas on site.
- Drogheria e Locanda Franci≫ – the hotel is located opposite the castle in Montalcino. It is connected to a wine shop and restaurant next door. This makes everything convenient for your stay.
What towns should you visit in Val d’Orcia?
The five towns of Val d’Orcia are extremely attractive and quite small: Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia, Montalcino, Bagno Vignoni and Radicofani.
Montalcino is the largest of them and has a population of only 5,000, while the others have only 2,000 or so. They are located quite close to each other. You can drive through them all in less than an hour (except Radicofani, which is in the very south of the region).
San Quirico d’Orcia
This small picturesque village halfway between Pienza and Montalcino is surrounded by fortified walls, and rows of cypress trees tower over the surrounding countryside. It is a beautiful and touristy town on a hill overlooking the Val d’Orcia valley. I was here in the evening, walked around the town, visited the Horti Leonini gardens, took pictures of the sunset, and enjoyed pasta and a glass of wine at the trattoria InTralci.
The majestic Gardens of Horti Leonini surround the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. And the elegant little chapel of Vitaleti sits on a hilltop not far from the city. The sunset was simply incredible – the red sky played with colors.
Hotels in San Quirico d’Orcia:
- Antica Sosta is a wonderful guesthouse with double rooms for couples, located in the center of the old town.
- Casanova – Family Apartments Residence≫ – a stunning location with wonderful views, near San Quirico d’Orcia. A small but beautiful hotel just a few minutes walk to the city center. The hotel has a very clean and cool swimming pool, open in high season.
- Dimora del Poggio a San Quirico d’Orcia – a beautiful 2-room apartment, furnished with authentic Italian furniture, creating a homely atmosphere. Wonderful views of the city’s rooftops and the surrounding countryside.
Pienza
Pienza is a beautiful little town located 23 km east of Montalcino and has a noble heritage. Pope Pius II redeveloped his birthplace in the 15th century into an ideal city that has survived from the Renaissance to the present day. From the city walls you will see wonderful views of the countryside, while in the city center you will see a harmonious design of palaces and a cathedral.
There is a very pleasant homely atmosphere here: shops along the small alleys sell percorino (sheep’s milk cheese), honey and other gifts from local farms. Here, as in other small Tuscan towns, life flows leisurely, according to its own rural laws.
At seven in the morning, church bells begin to ring, and at eight the first vegetable shops open. At the same time, bank clerks, school teachers, agricultural machinery drivers, and tourists gather in cafes for their morning cup of coffee, which often arouses great interest among the locals. To be inside this atmosphere – to feel the local rhythm of life, to enjoy it for at least an hour – is priceless!
Hotels in Pienza:
- Agriturismo Marinello≫ – the agriturismo has a stunning location overlooking the town of Pienza on a hilltop. The beautiful swimming pool will keep you cool in the summer heat and offer stunning views of the valley and the sunset.
- Piccolo Hotel La Valle≫ – the hotel has a very convenient location for traveling by car – there is its own parking lot. Nearby is the old town with all the restaurants and shops. The hotel is located on a hill – the rooms and the open veranda offer a wonderful view of the valley.
Montalcino
Montalcino is located 7 km from San Quirco d’Orcia. A tower rises from Piazza del Popolo in the center of the town, and a mighty fortress looms over it. But what this beautiful town, located 40 km south of Siena, is best known for is the vineyards that stretch in all directions. It produces a great wine – Brunello di Montalcino, one of the most famous red wines in the world.
Order a glass of wine, a selection of cheeses and meats to enhance your experience of the city with a vibrant bouquet of traditional flavors.
Hotels in Montalcino:
- Al Brunello≫ is a lovely hotel in Montalcino with its own garden and seasonal swimming pool. The hotel has terraces and balconies offering wonderful views of the hills of Val d’Orcia.
- Hotel Dei Capitani≫ – an atmospheric hotel-villa in the heart of the historic town of Montalcino. The rooms are spacious and have a wonderful Tuscan view. The hotel offers a varied and delicious breakfast. The swimming pool overlooking the vineyards is a highlight of the hotel. For guests with cars there is a private parking lot.
- Podere Brizio≫ – a wonderful place and stunning views, the hotel has a wonderful restaurant offering Italian cuisine and its own wine.
Radicophany
This is the southernmost town in the Val d’Orcia, perched on a high hill (over 900 metres above sea level). Here, stone houses surround a spacious square crowned by the magnificent fortress of Rocca di Radicofani. The mighty fortress stands on a 914-metre-high cliff, from which it overlooks most of southern Tuscany.
The 12th-century nobleman of the fortress, Gino di Tacco, was a robber known as the Tuscan Robin Hood for his courtly manners and penchant for robbing only the rich.
Hotels in Radicofan:
- Casa del Ciliegio≫ – A beautiful house located in the old town. There is a well-equipped kitchen and a washing machine. The price is also very nice.
- Casa Della Nonna≫ – Super comfortable house in a wonderful quiet location surrounded by forest. Cozy house a few minutes walk from the city center with all the necessary amenities.
Bagno Vignoni
I came here on foot from San Quirco, while traveling along the Via Francigena. Here are thermal springs that were used two and a half thousand years ago. These are the thermal baths of the medieval town of Bagno Vignoni.
These thermal baths have existed here since the Etruscan and Roman times, and they were no less important in the Middle Ages, when the main trade and pilgrimage route in Italy, the Via Francigena, passed through Bagno Vignoni. In the local main square of Bagno Vignoni are the ruins of a huge thermal pool, which was built in the 15th century. It is filled with the waters of a spring that flows through a volcanic fault.
Roman legionaries, Lorenzo de’ Medici and Saint Catherine of Siena were among those who came here to soak their weary bones, and modern visitors can stay in spa hotels located on thermal springs.
Hotels in Bagno Vignoni:
- Relais Osteria Dell’Orcia≫ – a very atmospheric place with excellent design and a chic surrounding area. good breakfast with natural local products. The hotel has its own swimming pool.
- Albergo Le Terme≫ – Excellent location: wonderful views of both the village and the surrounding area, nearby are thermal natural pools, a charming Tuscan town and the famous cypress roads.
Montepulciano
Montepulciano is an Etruscan city and the birthplace of the Medici family. Monte is Italian for mountain, and the hilltop town is covered in endless ups and downs and stunning views of the valley. It is a little bigger than Montalcino, with stunningly beautiful palazzos.
Although this beautiful hilltop town is not officially part of the Val d’Orcia, it is located right on the edge of the region, just 14km east of Pienza. You should definitely visit it while you are in the Val d’Orcia.
On the main street, everything goes uphill from the Porta al Prato gate to the spacious Piazza Maggiore, the highest point of this tall city, adorned with the Duomo and the Palazzo Comunale.
- Visit the main square of the city, Piazza Grande, and take a photo near the ancient well.
- On the city tower there is an old clock with an Italian Parsley, which strikes the bell with a hammer every hour.
- Visit local viewpoints that offer breathtaking views of the valley.
- Go into the main cathedral, the Duomo.
- Climb the tower of the Palazzo Comunale: from there you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Piazza Grande and the entire city.
There are many wine shops on the way up – here they make the oldest ruby-colored wine in Italy – the noble Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The classic has been tested for centuries. You can taste it on excursions to wineries and buy a bottle as a gift.
It is worth staying in Montepulciano for at least a couple of nights. Stay in any hotel in the central part. Or in an agritourism on the outskirts, so as not to deny yourself an extra glass of wine, and in the morning to meet the dawn in the vineyards covered with morning dew.
Hotels in Montepulciano:
- Il Buonumore≫ – Excellent location – the hotel is in a great location in the main historic district of Montepulciano, close to all the shops, restaurants and numerous wineries. The hotel has large comfortable rooms, which is great for couples.
- Hotel Panoramic Montepulciano≫ – the hotel has spacious, clean rooms, comfortable beds, a large bathroom, a very beautiful view, a large pool and relaxation area, and classic sweet Italian breakfasts.
- Tenuta Santagnese≫ – A beautiful romantic farmhouse has its own historic wine cellars with the opportunity to go on wine tastings.
Things to do in Val d’Orcia
Val d’Orcia is a rural area and there are no big towns with museums or theatres. The towns in this region are very small and, to be honest, none of them have a big cultural programme. This is not an area where you come for monuments and museums. But there is much else that is just as enjoyable. Most towns can be visited in an hour or two, and the scenery in between is stunning, making for incredible days of travel by car, Vespa scooter or bike.
Scooter or bike rides
The Val d’Orcia is popular with cyclists, with dozens of routes on paved secondary roads and gravel paths. The most challenging routes include climbing the slopes of Mount Amiata. While easier routes run along the hills that house Pienza, Montalcino and San Quirico d’Orcia. Dirt farm roads, ideal for walking and cycling, connect many of the villages in the region, including a 14-kilometer loop from Pienza to Monticchio and back.
There are many rental points for road and electric bikes, as well as bike tours and rental services for Italian Vespa scooters. Given the hilly terrain, an electric bike is a very attractive option.
Hiking in the valley
Via Francigena, the route taken by medieval pilgrims from Canterbury (England) to Rome, crosses the Val d’Orcia valley. I walked it in October 2023 – it was a wonderful journey that I recommend to anyone who loves peaceful slow journeys through beautiful nature. The paths of the route descend and climb through the rolling hills of the countryside. You walk the entire valley – from San Quirco d’Orcia to Radicofani – a total of 32 km through the entire Val d’Orcia valley and this section is particularly popular with tourists.
I recommend reading: Via Francigena – my experience walking from Lucca to Rome
Relax in the thermal springs
The Val d’Orcia valley has two well-known thermal springs – Bagno Vignoni and Bagna San Filippo. In Bagno Vignoni, the Terme spa resort is one of the few establishments where the hot water flows directly into the thermal pools, which you can access even if you are not staying at the hotel (for a fee). But you can soak in the hot water of the natural pools located at the foot of the archaeological park Parco dei Mulini near the Orcia River for free.
Outside the village of Bagni San Filippo, there is a path through the forest, the Sentiero di Fosso Bianco. This will take you to a series of hot spring pools, including one under a calcified waterfall known as Bocca di Balena (Whale’s Mouth).
Hiking on Monte Amiata
This volcanic dome rises 1,738 meters above the valley and is visible from many places in the Val d’Orcia. The road to the summit passes through the town of Abbadia San Salvatore, where it is worth stopping at the 8th-century abbey of the same name, and then winds through chestnut forests to the summit. From the end of the road, a path leads to a viewpoint under a tall iron cross.
Taste local wines and pecorino cheese
Farms around Pienza produce percorino, a hard cheese made from sheep’s milk. The ones here are famous as Pecorino di Pienza. They are said to be tastier than other pecorinos due to the aromatic qualities of the grasses on which the sheep graze.
La Taverna del Pecorino, Marusco e Maria and La Vecchia Bottega are among the cheese shops in town selling local produce. In September, Pienza hosts the Fiera del Cacio festival, dedicated to cheese and other local dishes and wine. The highlight is the Palio del Cacio Fuso, in which opposing teams roll round pecorinos around a wooden pole in the main square.
Val d’Orcia is home to two of Italy’s most famous wines, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The region also has its own appellation, the Orcia DOC, which sets the quality standard for wines grown in the region with 60 percent Sangiovese grapes.
All of this means there is plenty of excellent wine to enjoy. Many wineries offer tastings, and some pair their wines with local cuisine. If you’re in Val d’Orcia on the last weekend of April, you’ll get a good introduction to the Orcia DOCs at the Orcia Wine Festival in San Querico d’Orcia.
Useful links for travelers:
Find hotels – Booking.com
Touristic insurance – Hotline.Finance
Rent a car – Rentalcars.com
More articles about Italy:
- Tropea Beaches – Seaside Vacation in Italy
- Where to see lavender fields in Europe – the best locations for photos
- Best things to do in Pisa in one day
- Tuscany road trip – uncover the nicest part of Italy by car
- 15 the most beautiful places in Tuscany
