Baku — a sand-colored city. Fortress walls surround skyscrapers, while fashionable hotels stand alongside old courtyards where men still enthusiastically play backgammon.
Within minutes, Baku wins you over with one of the most beautiful airports, where, besides aesthetics, everything is provided for passengers’ comfort.
Everything here is bright and grand in the center, while the outskirts remain just as slightly worn. The people are warm-hearted, the cuisine is delicious, and the bright sun shines, reflecting in the Caspian Sea’s iridescent film. Over the past decades, the city has flourished and transformed into a true metropolis—with broad avenues, skyscrapers, five-star hotels, and green parks.
I have been to Baku, and I can say this: this city is worth more than simply rushing through in one day. I would set aside at least 2–3 days for Baku, or four if you also want to see unusual places around the capital.
How to get to Baku
By plane from Europe
One of the most convenient options is to travel from many European airports and fly to Baku from there.
It is worth checking flights for example from Warsaw. There are both direct and connecting flights between Warsaw and Baku. A direct flight takes approximately 4 hours.
Via Istanbul
Another convenient way is to fly to Baku via Istanbul. This is especially convenient if there is no good direct flight from Poland or Chișinău on the dates you need.
How to get from Baku Airport to the city center
Heydar Aliyev International Airport is located approximately 20 km from central Baku. The most convenient way to get to the city is by the Aeroexpress.
Buses run from Terminals 1 and 2 to the 28 May district, near the central railway station and metro. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes. During the day, buses depart every 20 minutes; at night, every 45 minutes.
A single trip costs 1.50 AZN, if you purchase a single-use BAKU KART. With a reusable card, the Aero Express fare is 1.30 AZN.
For a tourist, in my opinion, this is the best option in terms of value for money and convenience.
Taxi from the airport
The official Baku Taxi operates at the airport. Uber and Bolt are also available. It is better to order a car through the app after leaving the terminal and use the official pickup points. If you arrive at night or have a lot of luggage, a taxi will be much more convenient than the bus.
My advice: if you arrive during the day, choose the Aeroexpress; if it is late evening or night, take a taxi.
When to go to Baku
For a sightseeing trip, I consider April–May and September–October the best times. During this period, the exhausting summer heat has either not yet arrived or has already passed, making it much more comfortable to walk around the city and go on excursions.
In Baku, it is important to consider not only the temperature but also the wind. The city is called the city of winds, and even a warm day can feel completely different when a strong wind blows in from the Caspian Sea.
According to climate data, the average maximum temperature is approximately +7°C in January, +16°C in April, +22°C in May, +27°C in June, +31°C in July, +30°C in August, +26°C in September, and +20°C in October.
Weather in Baku by season
Winter, December–February
Cool and windy, but quite suitable for a city trip. During the day, it is usually around +7–10°C, while at night the temperature may drop to +2–5°C. There are few tourists, so this is a good time for those who want to explore the museums and Old City at a leisurely pace.
Spring, March–May
One of the most pleasant periods. March is still cool, April is already around +16°C, and in May the temperature rises to approximately +22°C. Perfect for long walks.
Summer, June–August
Hot and very sunny. In July and August, the average daytime temperature is around +30°C, although some days are considerably hotter. On the other hand, there is almost no precipitation. If you are planning a beach holiday, summer makes sense.
Autumn, September–November
September is a wonderful time for Baku: it is still warm, around +26°C, but not as exhausting as in July. In October, it is around +20°C; in November, approximately +14°C.
My choice is May, September, or the first half of October. We traveled to Baku in September, when there was no longer intense heat, so it was comfortable to walk around the city, and it was still possible to swim in the sea.
The Old City of Icherisheher—Baku as it almost no longer exists
It is best to begin exploring Baku with the Old City — Icheri-Sheher, where you can still see Eastern medieval architecture. Behind the fortress walls lies the real medieval Baku: narrow streets, stone houses, small courtyards, mosques, caravanserais, souvenir shops, and cafés.
You should set aside at least 2–3 hours to get acquainted with the Old City, but I would not hurry. The most interesting thing here is simply to walk around without a route.
Maiden Tower
One of Baku’s main symbols. The tower stands practically next to the promenade by the Caspian Sea and is part of the historical ensemble of Icheri-Sheher. Its purpose still gives rise to numerous legends and assumptions. There is a museum inside, and the upper platform offers a panorama of the Old City and modern Baku.
Palace of the Shirvanshahs
Another main attraction of the Old City is the palace complex of the rulers of the Shirvanshah state. Here you can see the palace, mausoleum, mosque, Divan-khane courtyard, and other structures of the medieval complex.
Museum of Miniature Books
In Icheri-Sheher there are numerous museums, souvenir shops, cafés, and residential buildings where ordinary people live among the fortress walls. We wandered into one of the strangest — the Museum of Miniature Books. It houses a huge collection of small books brought literally from all over the world. The museum was entered in the Guinness World Records as the world’s largest collection of miniature books.
This is exactly the place to visit if you have already seen the main attractions and feel like seeing something unusual.
Mosques, caravanserais, and old streets
Do not limit yourself to a few “main” attractions. In Icheri-Sheher, it is interesting simply to turn into the side lanes. Here you can see old caravanserais, mosques, traditional houses with stone balconies, and courtyards where life continues just as it did decades ago.
It is easy to get lost in the narrow streets leading deep into the old city: the walls rise high, small balconies overhang above your head, and block out the sun. Local merchants sit on chairs in front of the entrances to souvenir shops, enthusiastically play backgammon, and seem to be waiting for a lost tourist to start a conversation and lead them out of the old city’s labyrinth.
Despite its museum status, cats lazily warm themselves in the sun’s reflections in the Old City, freshly washed laundry flutters in the wind — the historic center continues to live an ordinary life.
Here, too, cats lazily bask in the sun on the crooked streets, and you can easily get lost, just like Gesha — the main character of “The Diamond Arm”. It was here that the famous scene — “Shurt pobery!” — was filmed.
Modern Baku — architecture of the future
If Old Baku transports you to the Middle Ages, the modern part of the city looks as if it were built for a futuristic film. And it is this contrast that I like most about Baku.
Flame Towers — Flaming Towers
Three enormous skyscrapers on a hill have become one of the symbols of modern Baku. They are clearly visible from almost anywhere in the city during the day, while in the evening light animations appear on their façades. The best place to admire the Flame Towers is Highland Park.
Highland Park
It is worth coming here toward evening. The observation decks offer a panorama of Baku, the Caspian Sea, and the modern city center. The Martyrs’ Lane is nearby, and you can walk down to the lower part of the city or take the funicular.
Baku Boulevard
Baku’s seaside boulevard is made for leisurely promenades, but swimming in the sea is unlikely to be enjoyable — the oil pumps along the shore remind you that oil is more important here than seaside recreation.
It stretches along the Caspian Sea, and you can spend several hours here, especially in the evening when the heat subsides.
The boulevard is home to interesting modern buildings and cultural sites, including the National Carpet Museum, whose building itself is shaped like a rolled-up carpet. The museum houses more than 6,000 Azerbaijani carpets.
There is also the Baku Ferris wheel, the YARAT Museum of Contemporary Art, and other places you can visit during your walk.
Heydar Aliyev Center
Be sure to plan a visit to the Heydar Aliyev Center — an architectural masterpiece without right angles by the world-famous sculptor Zaha Hadid.
To be honest, I had dreamed of seeing this building, and I am not afraid to say that it has become one of Baku’s most memorable architectural masterpieces. The cultural and exhibition center was built in Zaha’s distinctive style — right angles are practically not used, space transforms itself, creating a harmony of lines and meaning while rejecting all previously seen stereotypes and architectural solutions.
Inside is the Museum of Azerbaijan’s Cultural Heritage, and exhibitions are held regularly. A huge park surrounds the center; it has no trees at all, but offers vast space for relaxation on meadows and lawns, amid the coolness of fountains and lakes.
Baku and its beaches
Walking along Baku’s promenade, an unusual skyline with oil derricks on the horizon appears before your eyes. Near the shore, the water laps beneath a film of benzene. This scene does not make you want to swim.
Can you swim in Baku? I would not plan a beach holiday directly in central Baku.
Baku residents prefer to live and work in the city and spend their leisure time on the other side of the Absheron Peninsula, where there are numerous beaches with clear, clean water and good infrastructure.
If you want the sea, it is better to go to the beaches of the Absheron Peninsula, where there are well-equipped beach complexes. In summer, you can combine a city trip with several days by the Caspian Sea. For example, you can go to the Amburan beach resort, which has a large area divided into three zones: a pool, gazebos, and a beach.
What to see around Baku
This is where things get most interesting. Baku is not just a city. Around the capital are places for which I would definitely set aside at least one extra day.
The scenery around Baku is not particularly impressive — dusty brown mountains surrounding the city, covered with sparse bushes, oil pumps everywhere, and an industrial landscape. To see something interesting, you need to travel a hundred kilometers or so from the capital — there are unique places here that you will not find in every corner of the world.
Ateshgah – temple of fire
Azerbaijan is called the Land of Fire for good reason. In the suburbs of Baku stands Ateshgah — an ancient sanctuary associated with the Zoroastrian fire cult. The present-day temple complex took shape in the 17th–18th centuries and was once a pilgrimage site for Indian fire worshippers. Today, it operates as an open-air museum.
It is here that you begin to understand where the theme of fire, which literally permeates Azerbaijan’s image, came from.
Yanardag – the burning mountain
Not far from Ateshgah is another very unusual place — Yanardag, or the “burning mountain.” Natural gas emerges from the ground on the slope and sustains a constant flame. The fire can reach several meters in height.
Today, a museum complex has been developed around Yanardag, so it is no longer merely a natural landmark but a full-fledged tourist attraction.
Ateshgah and Yanardag are conveniently visited together in one day.
Gobustan – a journey thousands of years back
If you have another day, I highly recommend going to Gobustan.
Gobustan is located approximately 60 km from Baku. The reserve preserves more than 6,000 rock carvings, the oldest of which date back tens of thousands of years. On the stones, you can see people, animals, boats, and scenes of hunting, dancing, and everyday life.
There is also the famous first-century “Roman inscription,” left by a Roman soldier, as well as a gravity-musical gavaldash stone that produces a sound when struck.
Mud volcanoes – the most unusual trip from Baku
Another natural wonder is the mud volcanoes of Gobustan. Mud volcanoes exist in many countries, but of the 800 in the world, only 350 are located in Azerbaijan. The largest concentration is found in the Gobustan reserve, where ancient human settlements and their rock drawings have been discovered.
Instead of lava, cold mud and gas emerge from the ground here. Most of the volcanoes are low mud geysers, including some taller than an adult person; they look like bubbling hills.
The surrounding landscape looks so unusual that sometimes it feels as if you have landed on another planet. Azerbaijan has one of the largest concentrations of mud volcanoes in the world, while the area around Gobustan is one of the best-known places to observe them.
Mud volcanoes remain active all year round. The areas where they are located contain rich oil deposits, while the gas condensate emerging at the surface pushes out mud, creating a continuous eruption.
Gobustan + mud volcanoes is a good combination for a day trip from Baku.
Important point: you should not try to drive to the remote volcanoes in an ordinary passenger car after rain. Some roads here turn into real mud. If you do not rent an SUV, it is easier to take a tour or arrange a ride with a driver.
Gala – Medieval Azerbaijan
Another option for a trip on the Absheron Peninsula is the Gala Historical and Ethnographic Reserve Gala.
Here you can see traditional homes, outbuildings, and ancient household items, and learn how people lived in Absheron many centuries ago.
If you have only two days in Baku, I would not prioritize Gala. But on a four-day trip, you can add it to your itinerary.
The Colorful Mountains of Khizi
One of the most striking impressions is left by the multicolored mountains of Khizi — a piece of Mars 80 km from Baku. Similar outcrops of ancient sedimentary rocks can be found in China and in Peru. Stripes of red, orange, pink, white, and terracotta create a fantastic pattern on the slopes.
If you have a car and want to see not only Baku but also Azerbaijan’s unusual landscapes, I would include Khizi in a separate itinerary.
A place of absolutely fantastic beauty—it is essential to come here at sunset, when all the shades of red, orange, terracotta, and white appear, encircling the mountains in lines that stretch into the distance.
The mountains are dotted with small conical fossils—belemnites, prehistoric mollusks that lived on the seabed millions of years ago. It was then that the colored layers of these mountains formed from red sandstone, and under the influence of climatic conditions, groundwater, and mineral impurities, they took on various shades of pink and red.
Speaking of tourists, there are quite few of them here, as Gobustan can only be reached by taxi or a good SUV. There is practically no road, just a clay track winding past power lines. And tumbleweed driven by the wind across a lifeless desert surrounded by mountains. The sight of a mud eruption is somewhat apocalyptic, but you do not see such safe flows of mud lava and breathing earth in everyday life.
Azerbaijani Hospitality
Baku makes a very warm, hospitable impression not only because of its sandy colors, greenery, and blue sea. This atmosphere is created by genuinely open people for whom a guest is an honored person, and everything is open to them—both home and soul.
A guest will certainly be invited to a good restaurant and treated to national dishes that are incredibly filling and delicious. And it is quite impossible to refuse juicy kebab, dolma in grape leaves, or light and tasty dushbara soup—a broth with tiny dumplings, 6–8 of which fit in a spoon.
Tea drinking — is a true ritual carried out in accordance with national traditions. In Azerbaijan, tea is drunk from small pear-shaped glass cups called armudu —this shape keeps the drink from cooling, while the rim does not burn your fingers. At the narrowest point, tea of different temperatures mixes and becomes ideal for long tea sessions and conversations.
Various types of nuts, pressed sugar, and baklava are served with tea. Azerbaijani baklava is not as sweet as Turkish baklava; it contains far more nuts than dough—a small piece, and you immediately feel full.
And a small bowl of jam is always served—in Azerbaijan, hundreds of varieties are made: from watermelons and melons, walnuts, and paradise apples. Try all of this in the company of Azerbaijani friends. And believe me, all it takes is a trip to hospitable Baku, and you will certainly meet them.
Where to Stay in Baku
For a first trip, I would look for accommodation in the city center or near the Old City. The most convenient areas are:
- Icherisheher – if you want to live amid a historic atmosphere.
- The Fountain Square area – one of the most convenient options for tourists. Restaurants, shops, the Old City, and the main attractions are nearby.
- Nizami Street – a good option if you like having plenty of life around in the evenings.
- Baku Boulevard – for those who want to be closer to the Caspian Sea.
I recommend not straying too far from the city center and the waterfront, where there is a wide choice of modern hotels and convenient transport connections.
- Baku Marriott Hotel Boulevard – we stayed here when we came to Baku. The rooms are spacious, clean, and very cozy. The staff is incredibly friendly. The breakfasts are delicious.
- ibis Baku City – classic Ibis, a good location, comfortable beds, there is a water cooler both in the corridor and an additional bottle in the room, and the breakfasts are very varied. An ironing room, etc.
- Radisson Hotel Baku – Excellent location within walking distance of Nizami Street, Park Boulevard, and local attractions. Everything during our stay was at the highest level — from the fast check-in/check-out process to the excellent breakfast, prompt room service, and impeccable housekeeping.
Getting around Baku
The central part of Baku is most pleasant to explore on foot. For longer journeys, you can use the metro, buses, and taxis. By the way, taxis are sometimes much more convenient than public transport—in newer districts, it is very inconvenient to walk from the stops.
If you are planning to visit Gobustan, the mud volcanoes, Ateshgah, and Yanardag, a car will make things considerably easier. But you do not need a car for Baku itself—on the contrary, it can be more of a problem because of parking and city traffic.
Useful information for a trip to Baku
- Currency: Azerbaijani manat (AZN).
- Language: Azerbaijani. Russian and English are also widely used in Baku, especially in the tourism sector.
- Visa: Ukrainian citizens can enter visa-free for up to 90 days.
- Time: UTC+4.
- Sockets: European type, 220 V.
- Clothing: regular comfortable clothing for walking around the city. When visiting mosques, it is worth following the appropriate dress code.
Useful links for preparing for your trip:
Car rental — affordable car rental options in DiscoverCars
Hotels — we traditionally booked through Booking.com
Travel insurance can be purchased on the Hotline.Finance.
Read also:
- Odesa — what to do by the sea in winter
- To Uzhhorod — to see the cherry blossoms
- Three days in Tbilisi — what to do in the capital of Georgia
- Marrakech — a city of colors, spices, and red walls
