The best sights in Racha and what you can manage to see in this region in three to four days. We were there at the end of May, when there was still snow in the mountains, so without trekking, we managed to fit in a full three days, gathering a concentrated selection of locations and impressions from Racha.
On our journey through Georgia, Racha was a real discovery. I knew what to expect from Svaneti—it is mentioned in every guidebook. But I traveled to Racha as if I were discovering every patch of new land. I want to share my discoveries and impressions.
Where is Racha located?
Racha is surrounded by Imereti to the south (from Kutaisi 75 km), from the northwest — Svaneti, from the northeast — the Greater Caucasus Range and the border with Russia, while the unrecognized Republic of South Ossetia lies adjacent to it in the east.
The main town of Racha is Ambrolauri, where you should plan to stay in one of the guesthouses or hotels. From Tbilisi to Ambrolauri is 275 km and involves three passes. Without stops, the journey takes 6 hours. But it is better to set aside the entire daylight period, as there are many interesting places along the way. From Batumi to Ambrolauri is 240 km and takes about the same amount of time as from Tbilisi
When should you travel to Racha?
The season in Racha lasts from late spring through October.
- In May and June, it is already warm, and the waterfalls and rivers are full of water.
- In July and August, the high-mountain roads are free of snow, making it possible to climb above 2,000 meters, see mountain lakes, and even try driving an off-road vehicle over the pass from Racha to Svaneti.
- In autumn, the mountain slopes in Racha are painted in a riot of colors—from yellow to red.
- In winter, life in Racha comes to a standstill—there are no ski resorts here, and tourists travel to other regions at this time.
Roads in Racha
There are roads in Racha, and some of them—even paved ones—lead into the high mountains. The roads in the Ambrolauri valley and at the Nakerala Pass are excellent. But you still need to drive on them carefully.
First of all, the hairpin bends are quite steep.
Secondly, the animals. Throughout Georgia, cows and pigs lie on paved roads, while dogs roam around—all of them need to be carefully driven around. Cows generally prefer not to walk but to lie on the roads. We even saw cows on the high-speed motorway near Kutaisi. Instead of a guardrail dividing the road in half, grass grows between two concrete barriers. That is where the cows were sprawled out. You immediately start picturing how they got there—over the barrier and across the two roads along which cars and trucks speed. In general, I would rather not hit a cow at a speed of 110 km per hour.
To reach remote areas, you will need an off-road vehicle. Or you can leave your car on the paved road and continue on foot.
What to do in Racha — main attractions
We went to Racha to see its extraordinarily beautiful mountain scenery. For some reason, Racha is called “Georgian Switzerland.” To be honest, I do not like such comparisons, and I found nothing in common between Switzerland and Racha. First of all, Racha is not picture-perfect; on the contrary, it is so authentic and completely unpolished, unlike the ideal Swiss villages. Secondly, although wine is made in Switzerland, it is a long way from Racha’s Khvanchkara. Thirdly, there are no trains here, and in general, everything is different here.
Nakerala Pass and the Mountain of 9 Crosses
To reach Racha, we crossed three passes, the last of which lies on the border between Imereti and Racha. This pass is Nakerala, along the road from the mining town of Tkibuli into the mountains, a steep series of switchbacks leads uphill. Having climbed it, we stop at a viewpoint offering a panorama of the Imereti valleys. Wow doesn’t even begin to describe it!
From the Nakerala Pass, you can get to Mount Tskhradzhvari — in translation “Mountain of Nine Crosses.” Once, a cable car led here from the city of Tkibuli. The road to the observation deck has now been renovated. In one hour climb to the summit Tskhradzhvari, on which all nine crosses have been erected to see the panorama of the valleys of Imereti.
This is a special place for Georgians — according to legend, the crosses atop the mountain were erected by the father of nine sons who went to war with the Turkish conquerors. The father sincerely prayed to God to return his sons to him and his prayers helped the brothers return home safely.
Further along the route is Shaori Reservoir. The weather at the reservoir is not always wonderful—we managed to see it both on a sunny, clear day and in an eerie fog. A cloud simply descended and covered everything around us. It was fortunate that both times—there and back—we traveled along the same road, so we were able to see how the snowy peaks were reflected in the waters of Shaori Reservoir. In summer, people relax here on a small beach, and you can also pitch a tent here. In the #iloveracha recreation area, swings bearing this popular hashtag have been installed on the shore and in the water.
Gvirishi and Tkhmori Waterfalls (Shareula)
The next stop on the journey is hidden from everyone in the gorge Tkhmori Waterfall (Shareula). It can be reached by driving along the Chrebalo-Nikortsminda road in the direction of the village of Zeda Shavra. From the village, a narrow dirt road leads down into a deep gorge; you can either drive along it in an off-road vehicle or walk several kilometers, following the signs. There is another beautiful spot near the waterfall — a river flows out of a cave, supplying a small power plant.
We then drove west along the Rioni River on the main road through the Ambrolauri Valley to see another waterfall — Gvirishi. Unlike Tkhmori, it is not hidden in a gorge but, on the contrary, is located high in the mountains. A dirt road traditionally leads to it: a stone wall on one side and a precipice plunging into a deep canyon on the other. The adrenaline and scenery make a thrilling combination. A glass observation deck has been built above the waterfall, offering a breathtaking view of the waterfall and the gorge.
And along the way, you can see another beautiful place — The Columns, or Pillars, of Sairme. These are oddly shaped rocks located between the settlements of Alpana and Chrebalo, near the village of Sairme, in the Tsageri Municipality. A 3-kilometre hiking trail leads to these rocks. If you wish, you can take a one-day hiking route around the Sairme Columns and see the waterfall.
Ambrolauri — the capital of Racha
In Ambrolauri itself, there are no particular attractions. Here, you should drink wine in the homes of winemakers. Relax in the evenings after active hikes in the mountains and trips to natural attractions. In fact, that is what we did in Racha, staying with a native Rachian. He let us into his wine cellar, where we found joy in tasting white and red wine and, of course, chacha — how could we do without it!
Waterfall Sikvaruli
Although the town is small, Ambrolauri has its own airport. And there are plenty of interesting places and outdoor activities around it. For example, on the outskirts of Ambrolauri is the waterfall Sikvaruli or, as it is also called, the Waterfall of Love. Water flows in thin silver streams from the top of a rock covered in green moss. In one place, a small heart-shaped cave has formed in the rock—it is thanks to this that the waterfall got its name. Access to the waterfall is excellent—you can drive there in an ordinary passenger car.
Archangel Church
You can visit the village of Zemo Krikchi and the Archangel Church. The unusual church is located near an ancient cemetery. It was the first time I had seen bas-reliefs of wild animals in a church. At first I thought they were cats, but it turned out they were bears, which are found in large numbers in Racha.
Next to the church stands a huge ancient tree, with an enormous hollow inside it extending across the entire width of the trunk. The two of us fit inside comfortably, and a third person could have climbed in too. And what’s more, a second tree grows inside the hollow—a tree within a tree!
Canyon Krikhuli
Hike the route through the river canyon Krikhuli. This is where the river begins, and at the end of the route an extraordinarily beautiful waterfall awaits you. In summer, it is even pleasant to walk knee-deep in the cool water, admiring the bizarre patterns of the rocks overhanging the canyon and covered in green moss.
You can stay in Ambrolauri in one of the guesthouses; there are even stylish glamping sites here.
Find hotels and glamping sites in in Ambrolauri.
Racha — the birthplace of Khvanchkara
Yes, it is here that the rare and rather expensive wine is produced Khvanchkara, which made famous Georgian winemakers throughout Europe. At the beginning of the last century, Princes Liban and Dmitry Kipiani sent Khvanchkara to a European wine competition held in Belgium. And they won the grand prize.
Until the 1930s, this wine was simply called— Kipiani, but then, on Stalin’s orders, it was renamed Khvanchkara after the area where the grapes are grown. There are few vineyards in Racha; on the mountain slopes of the Ambrolauri Valley, two indigenous grape varieties are cultivated—Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli—which are used to make naturally semi-sweet Khvanchkara.
They say that it is even forbidden to take grapes out of Racha—the police stop suspicious vehicles belonging to outsiders during the autumn harvest and check their trunks for grapes being taken out of Racha. Khvanchkara made in other regions from other grape varieties is considered a counterfeit.
The wine is exceptionally delicious—it has a dark ruby color and a velvety raspberry flavor. And although I prefer dry wines, I really enjoyed the naturally semi-sweet Khvanchkara. Despite its high sugar content, it has only 12–13% alcohol, is easy to drink, has a slightly tart taste, and does not cause the intoxication associated with sweet and semi-sweet wines.
Mountains and high-mountain lakes
The mountains are what makes a trip to Racha worthwhile. To the northeast, it is surrounded by the Greater Caucasus Range, to the west by the Lechkhumi. In clear weather, the snow-capped peaks are visible from practically everywhere. And in summer, you can get as close to them as possible. By mid-June, you can already travel to elevations of over 1,500 meters, to high-mountain lakes. Or walk along one of the hiking trails.
Lake Mravaldzali
In May, we managed to drive up to Lake Cholevi, which is located near the village Mravaldzali, at an altitude of 1,840 meters above sea level. It is located not far from the village itself, which is accessible by a paved road. From there, you can continue on foot or by off-road vehicle. The lake is marshy and unsuitable for swimming; its shores are covered with algae, but the surroundings are very beautiful. Mount Khikhati rises above the lake, and beech forests stretch all around. You can pitch a tent near the lake and take radial routes around the area.
Gebi Village — Hona Village — Kirtisho Glacier Route
From the village Gebi the route follows the highway and leads to the village of Hona, where you can spend the night. At the exit from the village, there is a border police checkpoint where identity documents are checked. The confluence of the Chveskhura and Dombarula rivers is located 3.5 km from the border police checkpoint. There used to be shepherds’ huts here, where tourists pitched their tents. The next morning, you need to walk another 7 km to reach the glacier.
The round trip takes 4 days in total.
Udziro Lakes — Lake of Love
The lakes Udziro are located high in the mountains, not far from the villages of Glola and Shovi, on the western slope of Mount Katitsvera. The lake is situated at an altitude of 2,800 m, offering a breathtaking view of the Caucasus Range.
You can also get here by off-road vehicle once the snow has melted. Or hike from the village of Shovi. The ascent is quite challenging and steep. But the lakes are worth spending a couple of days on, trekking into the mountains for 7–8 hours a day. You can also pitch a tent here and spend a couple of nights. During the day, go on radial hikes.
Useful links for preparing for your trip:
Insurance – you can find an affordable option on the portal HotlineFinance
Booking hotels, guesthouses, and apartments – Booking.com
Car rental in Georgia – DiscoverCars
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Independent trip through Turkey by car
Ethnogastronomic route through Bessarabia
