Travel to Burgundy in autumn

How I imagined France: delicious, joyful, and just a little tipsy. No timetables or strict schedules — just driving wherever the road takes you, stopping at cafés, savoring life’s simple pleasures, and washing it all down with a glass of wine.

But I must confess: it wasn’t perfect from the start.

How I Realized Paris Alone Wouldn’t Fill Me Up

There’s a saying: “What does it matter what sneakers you wear if you’ve walked Paris in them?”
Sounds romantic, doesn’t it? But when I got a closer look at France, the irony of that thought hit hard.

My first time in Paris was a rush: Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, €4 coffee, and a questionable baguette for a snack. Beautiful, yes, but zero culinary satisfaction.

The Alps? Living on a budget with instant noodles in my backpack.
The French Riviera? A business trip in heels, with cheese and a bottle of rosé tucked in my purse. But that true “taste of France” was still missing.

I craved something different. Culinary discoveries that make your head spin. And I told myself: stop waiting for a miracle – it’s time to create one.

That’s How Our Burgundy Wine & Gastronomy Route Was Born

The Wine Road – La Route des Grands Crus

Burgundy is not just a region. It’s a world of wine routes, vineyards, and flavors recognized by UNESCO.
We chose La Route des Grands Crus – the legendary “Great Wines Route” established back in 1937.
It stretches from Dijon to Santenay and passes through 37 communes with Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards.

The route is about 50 km long. We drove it over two days, stopping for tastings, photos, and little gourmet pleasures.

Why Burgundy – wine route La Route des Grands Crus

Burgundy is not just a region. It is a world of wine routes, vineyards and taste, recognized by UNESCO as an intangible heritage.

So, Burgundy (Bourgogne) is a French region where grapes have been grown for centuries and famous wines are made. If you have heard the names Chablis or Beaujolais out of the corner of your ear, all this is about Burgundy and is brought from here.

The main wine attraction is La Route des Grands Crus – a wine road stretching from Dijon to Santany. This popular route with tourists includes 37 communes with famous wineries. It is not for nothing that it was called the “Road of Great Wines” and the “Champs Elysees of Burgundy“. The length of the route is about 50 km. We drove it by car in two days, making stops for tastings, photos, enjoying small gastronomic delights.

We started our vin-jour tour of Burgundy from the Wine Route. It is extremely beautiful here. The hills stretching along the Saône River are completely covered with vines. Back in the 12th century, the local Cistercian monks planted the first vines next to their monastery, and by the beginning of the 14th century, the total area of the vineyard had already reached its current size – over 22 thousand hectares.

In 1937, the Côte d’Or Departmental Council created this route for walks and wine tasting. The Burgundy Grand Cru Route has been running for over 80 years and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What did we do this week?

What did we manage to do in a week? We tasted wine and cheese, ran drunkenly through the autumn hills, ate snails in a green-garlic sauce, went to dinner parties with locals, and went to village restaurants in the evenings with a recommendation from the Michelin guide.

Why do you need this information? I don’t know, maybe this way you can imagine the scale of this wine “paradise”. You drive by car or on a large one along stone fences – the vineyards are surrounded by a wall of stones, the so-called “enclosed field”, in French “clos”. And on all sides there are slender rows of yellowing vines. And it’s so beautiful!

You can travel along the “Wine Road” by car – we drove the entire route in two days. It’s only about 50 km, so you can imagine how many stops were made at wineries, wine was drunk, photos were taken and French baguettes with pate were devoured.

So our route was as follows:

We decided to go not only on the classic “Wine Route”, but also to do an original gastronomic tour of Burgundy. Here’s what it looked like:

Stops and impressions:

Chablis – an introduction to legendary white wines.
Vézelay – a picturesque village on a hill with a basilica and local gastronomic discoveries.
Semur-en-Auxois – an authentic town with cobblestones and old houses.
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain – one of the most beautiful villages in France, famous for the film “Chocolat”.
Châteauneuf – a medieval castle and wine landscapes.
Beaune – the heart of Burgundy wine, tastings in cellars.
Autun – a city with Roman ruins and old houses.
Chalon-sur-Saône is a cozy town on the river with great restaurants.
The finale of the route is further south, towards Cluny, to meet up with friends.

Our 463 km Journey Through the Heart of Burgundy

1. Chablis

✅ Highlights:

Quaint streets and authentic restaurants featuring local cuisine.
Legendary white wine Chablis, made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes.
Traditional wine cellars offering tastings.

2. Vézelay

✅ Highlights:

A hilltop medieval village listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine – a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture.
Shops selling local cheeses, wines, and honey treats.

3. Semur-en-Auxois

✅ Highlights:

A historic town with cobblestone streets and old market squares.
Perfect spot for lunch with local delicacies.
Scenic roads leading into the Burgundy countryside.

Where to stay in Semur-en-Auxois:

We spent one night in Semur in a small one-story house. Maison de ville familiale et conviviale.
La Maison Févret≫ – hotel in an old building with a terrace and beautiful views of the city and the river.
O p’tit chez soi≫ – The hotel is ideally located at the foot of the city center and the ramparts. The rooms are decorated with great taste and are very warm.

4. Flavigny-sur-Ozerain

✅ Highlights:

One of the most beautiful villages in France.
Filming location for the movie “Chocolat” starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche.
Famous for its aromatic anise-flavored candies.

Where to stay in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain:

La Flavignienne≫ – very nice guesthouse with a classic French breakfast included in the price of the stay. Located directly in the ancient Flavigny.
Les Allumettes d’Ecorsaint≫ – guesthouse in the nearby town of Ecorsant. Perfect location for an overnight stop between near Flavigny, the owners offer a good dinner with Burgundian recipes.

5. Châteauneuf

✅ Highlights:

A 13th-century castle overlooking the valley.
Charming streets, cafés, and traditional bistros.
A perfect spot for photos and a glass of wine with a medieval view.

Where to stay in Châteauneuf:

We spent the night in the neighboring village of Maconj – in a guesthouse La Datcha Bourguignonne. Wonderful hosts await you, evening gatherings with wine and homemade pie. They will be happy to give recommendations – which restaurant has delicious food and organize a warm welcome for you.

Domaine de Vandenesse & Spa≫ – a small old house located by the canal – overlooking Chateauneuf Castle.
Château Sainte Sabine≫ – rooms in an old chateau, with views of the valley and the castle.
Ancien moulin Créancey≫ – A wonderful guesthouse with a patio, very attentive owners who prepare delicious breakfasts.

6. Beaune

✅ Highlights:

The wine capital of Burgundy.
Hospices de Beaune – a 15th-century hospital with its iconic colorful roof.
Historic wine cellars offering tastings of legendary Pinot Noir.

Where to stay in Beaune:

Au coin des Hospices≫ – wonderful apartment in the center of Beaune near the Hospice.
Château de Challanges≫ –Country chateau in a green park with a swimming pool, open in the summer. There is parking for a car.
Le Meix Gautheret≫ – Inexpensive family rooms in an old chateau located in the suburbs of Beaune.

7. Autun

✅ Highlights:

A town with Roman gates and an ancient amphitheater.
Saint-Lazare Cathedral – a fine example of Gothic architecture.
Narrow streets full of character and cozy local restaurants.

Where to stay in Autun:

We stayed at a guesthouse Chambres d’Hôtes Autun – from here there was a great view of the cathedral. And the owner of the guesthouse – the talkative Philip – fried French pancakes for us in the morning. And he told us how much he liked the Ukrainian city of Shepetivka. Philip is an avid motorcycle traveler who has traveled through Ukraine more than once in his travels.
Gîte de charme Autun’Home≫ –Excellent house, practically in the center of Auten, with its own garden. Perfectly located for walking around the city, as well as for excursions in the region. You get practically half a house: a bedroom and a living room (and of course a kitchen and a bathroom), all furnished with love and style.
Chambre d’Aut’≫ – The apartment is a short drive from the center and main attractions. Nice terrace for breakfast.

8. Chalon-sur-Saône

✅ Highlights:

A riverside town with picturesque quays and bridges.
Home to the Photography Museum, as Joseph Nicéphore Niépce, the inventor of photography, was born here.
Excellent gastronomy – the perfect dinner stop.

Final Stop – Near Cluny

✅ Highlights:

Rolling vineyards and peaceful countryside roads where time stands still.
Ideal spot to continue your journey south toward Beaujolais.

Why Take This Route?

Because Burgundy is not just about wine – it’s about history, architecture, and authentic French flavors. This route is perfect for those who want to taste France in every sense: from legendary Chablis wines to gourmet dishes in small bistros, from medieval castles to cozy villages with unforgettable charm.

Burgundian cuisine – snails and coq au vin

When the harvest is harvested, the rows of grapes are gradually covered with gold and red leaves – you can’t imagine a more beautiful picture in autumn. You can have a picnic in the vineyards, sipping local Chardonnay with acidity or light mineral Pinot Noir. While snacking on a crispy baguette with cold duck terrine (something between a pâté and a meat casserole).

Be sure to buy a head of Burgundy Epoisses cheese – a creamy soft cheese covered with an orange mold crust that is incredibly tasty just with fresh bread. It is made into a surprisingly tender apple pie – tarte a I’Epoisses et aux pommes, which must be eaten hot to feel how the cheese melts on baked apples.

And for dinner, order a rooster in wine.

Stopping for the night in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet, the landlady booked us a table at the restaurant Le Terroir (19 Place du Jet d’Eau, 21590 Santenay) in the neighboring village of Santenay. The restaurant has no stars, but is recommended by the Red Michelin Guide.

It serves delicious regional Burgundian cuisine: Burgundian snails with oil, garlic, parsley and almonds; Coq Au Vin with red wine, an excellent wine list. The three-course evening menu is 28 Euros per person.

A pleasant country restaurant, Karina bustles behind the counter, asking how each visitor is doing. At the very beginning of the dinner, everyone is quietly cooing over the dishes and wine lists. By the heat of the moment, voices are getting louder, and there is no longer any sense of shyness from the presence of strangers – everyone is having fun, their cheeks are burning from wine and hot dishes, Corrina takes turns chatting with visitors, the waiter rustles around, changing plates, offering cheeses and desserts on a cart.

What We Tasted Along the Way

Gougères – small cheese puffs with a hint of mustard. Perfect with coffee or a glass of white wine.
Escargots – snails in green garlic butter. A true Burgundy classic!
Coq au Vin – rooster braised in red wine. Juicy, aromatic, legendary.
Époisses cheese – soft, intensely flavored with an orange rind. Napoleon adored it, they say.
Apple tart – simple, yet incredibly homey dessert.
And of course, wine: from sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne to noble Pinot Noir.

What to drink – Chablis: pour me more, my dear

The Chablis region is located in the north of Burgundy, and we also visited it. Chablis is a well-known region in wine circles that caused me awe. Well, how – a bottle of Grand Cru wine from the slopes of Chablis sometimes costs more than our entire travel budget.

The Chablis region grows exclusively Chardonnay. In the village of Chablis, there is a large selection of tasting cellars where you can taste wine from different slopes – a large selection of wineries and vintages. In one of the cellars we tasted – we chose a set of six local wines from different slopes. So to speak, we touched the big one – we felt the difference and level of acidity of each of them.

Depending on which slope the grapes grew on, the taste of the final product is correspondingly different. The lower slopes receive little sunlight and the acidity of such grapes is higher. The grapes from the top of the hill get more sun, but the lucky ones are the vines that grow in the middle of the hill – they get maximum sun and the wines from such grapes are softer and more delicate.

The wine from the poorly lit slopes is frankly sour. May the Chablis connoisseurs forgive me. But we still bought one bottle – Chardonnay with a mineral taste, an aftertaste of juicy apples – a few days later we drank it with pleasure with French friends.

Stops That Made Us Fall in Love with Burgundy

Dijon – the mustard capital and the starting point of the wine route.
Beaune – the heart of Burgundy wines. Don’t miss wine tastings in 17th-century cellars.
Chassagne-Montrachet – a village famous for its white wines, perfect for dinner.
Santenay – the final stop and dinner at Le Terroir (Michelin-recommended). Warm ambiance, delicious escargots, coq au vin, and a wine list starting at €28.

Practical Tips for Travelers

When to Go

The best time is September–October, when vineyards turn golden and the new vintage is ready.
Spring is also a good choice: fewer tourists and blooming landscapes.

How to Get There

Fly from anywhere in Europe to Paris or Lyon.
Then rent a car – it’s almost impossible to do this route without one.

Where to Stay

In Beaune – charming guesthouses or wine châteaux.
In the villages along the route – family hotels or chambre d’hôtes (French B&Bs).
Above in the route description I wrote about some great options, including the ones where we stayed. Booking as usual on Booking.com – Bourgogn≫

Budget

Wine: tastings from €10 to €25.
Lunch: from €20–35 per person.
Dinner in a Michelin-recommended restaurant: €25–50.
Hotel: €70–120 per night for two.

Why You Should Do This At Least Once in Your Life

Burgundy is a taste you’ll never forget. Small villages, old stone houses, wine cellars scented with oak, autumn hills where you just want to sit in the grass with a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the vineyards.

It’s France without the pretension, but full of soul. And we felt it.

Useful articles and links:

Car rental – we rented a car at the Lyon airport. We picked up an inexpensive option – Rentalcars.com
Hotels – I traditionally book on Booking.com
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Wine & Gastronomy Tour in Burgundy — Taste the Real France

How I Realized Paris Alone Wouldn’t Fill Me Up