Our trip to Albania is an attempt to see its different corners in the north and south of the country in one week. Yes, time was short, but we chose this route to see the Albanian Alps and the Ionian Coast. Completely opposite parts of the country, but I chose the most interesting locations for me and the most beautiful sea.
Here’s how it turned out, how we managed everything, and my tips on how to make this route a bit cheaper and better.
Why should you go to Albania?
For me, it was an opportunity to visit a new place, a country with beautiful nature—mountains and sea, ancient history, and also a recent past that has influenced the modern face of Albania.
Until the early 1990s, during the era of strict communist rule, the country was almost completely closed to foreign visitors for several decades. As Albania became one of the most isolated states on earth, the number of tourists was strictly limited, border crossing was strictly controlled, and every visitor was closely monitored (just like in the Soviet Union, where we also used to live).
However, in the past ten years this Balkan country, located opposite Italy, has been very actively developing its tourism business. A country with stunning mountains in the north, a cluster of wonderful beaches and bays along two coasts—the Adriatic and Ionian seas. With an interesting and diverse culture and religions, it offers travelers a variety of opportunities.
And thanks to an increase in flights, improved roads, and a constantly growing tourism environment, Albania is becoming more and more popular.
I was curious to see Albania with my own eyes, to take one of the popular hikes, to swim in the clean sea, and to try tasty and inexpensive seafood. That’s why we went on a week-long trip to this country (it’s better to plan for 10 days to see more).
I recommend you to read: Sea vacation in Himare, Albania
When to go to Albania for a sea and mountain vacation?
Of course, most tourists are tied to summer vacations, so they choose to visit Albania in summer. If so, it’s better to do it in June—there aren’t a lot of people yet, moderate prices for accommodation, and no crazy heat.
We were there from June 19 to 26, and the last days were already quite hot. But near the sea, a temperature of +28-30℃ is much easier to handle. In the mountains, the temperature is a few degrees lower, but going for a hike at +25℃ is already quite extreme. We climbed the mountains at +22-23℃, and it was hot.
In June, the snow still remains in the couloirs, but on the trails it’s already gone—it’s quite normal to go both up and down. The sea at this time also warms up to +23℃, and on the Ionian coast of Albania, the water is transparent, clean, and warm. I consider this time ideal for combining a mountain and a sea vacation.
September is another great month for both the sea and mountains—there are no longer severe heatwaves, children go back to school, so the beaches are less crowded and the water is still warm. In the mountains, it’s as warm, and until mid-October, you can continue hiking without problems.
Visas and documents for traveling to Albania
Ukrainians do not need a visa for Albania—a biometric foreign passport is sufficient. You can check on TIMATIC if your country need or nit to have visa in Albania.
- British passport holders get visa-free entry for up to 90 days within any 180‑day period.
- EU/Schengen-zone citizens also have visa-free entry for up to 90 days in any 180‑day period/
- Australians have the same conditions as British and EU passport holders.
- US citizens can also enter Albania as a tourist without a visa, and can stay up to one year in Albania without applying for a residency permit
Passport stamps have not been put in for several years now—just a check by border officers, which goes quite quickly, especially at Tirana airport.
Mobile sell in Albania
Albania has been a candidate for the EU since 2014 and has been negotiating membership since 2020, but remains outside the EU and Schengen area.
The best option is to buy a local SIM card from Vodafone or One for your unlocked phone (they are easy to buy at Tirana airport and in other cities) or to choose an eSIM.
We downloaded the MobiMetter app—12Gb cost 13 euros. This is much cheaper than roaming.
Local Currency
Albania is a country that loves cash. In fact, they prefer euros even though the official currency is the Albanian lek (ALL). It’s important to note that it is impossible to buy leks abroad in advance. Therefore, look for exchange offices, compare their rates to the internet, so as not to end up with a very unfavorable exchange.
Our flight arrived in Tirana very late, so we had to change money at the airport. This is not the best option—it’s better to exchange in Tirana or another large city. However, we had to leave for the mountains in the morning, so we needed cash.
Exchange offices work with no fee. But if you want to withdraw money at an ATM—there will be a significant commission. All ATMs in Albania charge a fee for withdrawing cash.
The minimum commission is 3-5%.
All this means that you need to strategize your withdrawals and take out as much as possible at the beginning and middle of your trip. We changed money a second time in Himare—the exchange rate was worse than at the airport (two exchange offices with bad rates).
We exchanged dollars, and saved euros to pay for hotels and guesthouses.
Tip for those who, like us, exchange money at the airport: the best rate is in the exchange offices outside the baggage area. There are two exchanges near the baggage carousels—the rate is worse there than in the exchange, which is already in the arrival zone, where the greeters stand. You can exchange both dollars and euros.
Payment in Euros
Although the euro to lek rate is usually 1 to 100, you will never exchange money at this rate. But small businesses always accept if you want to pay with euros instead of leks.
Some hotels also prefer payment in euros, and some insist on it if your online booking price was in this currency (this is even mentioned in messages after booking). This can lead to a strange situation when you want to pay in local currency but they insist on payment in euros.
Where will you need cash?
Almost everywhere!
We paid by card only for gasoline—all gas stations accept cards (we paid with a hryvnia card). We managed to pay for accommodation at one of the hotels in the mountains. But meals were only for cash. In more-or-less large supermarkets, you can pay by card. In some stores too, but the minimum check is 1000 leks.
Other payments—cash only!
How to get to Albania?
There are several options, depending on which part of Albania you want to explore.
By own car
This type of transport is very popular among people who live in European countries. You don’t have to worry about flight cancellations; you can pack more necessities and go on a long vacation to Albania. It turns out quite budget-friendly. Plus, you are free to travel around Albania without restrictions—unlike a rental car (more about this below).
Keep in mind that a Green Card is a mandatory requirement in Albania for vehicles registered in foreign countries.
By plane
The main points of entry to Albania are the airport in the capital Tirana and the airport on the Greek island of Corfu.
Corfu Airport
If you are planning a holiday just in the south of Albania, flying to Greece is one of the most convenient and affordable ways. A ferry runs from Corfu to Saranda—30-45 minutes, 20-23 euros one way, and you’ll reach the stunning beaches of the Albanian Riviera.
In general, if you come to Albania only for a beach holiday, Corfu is a better option than a 4-6 hour drive from Tirana.
Tirana Airport
Flying to Tirana is the best option for those who want to visit mountains and the sea in the north—in Durres. Or, as in our case, to travel across the country by car.
We flew here because we went to the mountains first, then with a rental car—to the southern beaches in Himare.
The new airport in Vlore was supposed to open in the summer of 2025, but currently the project is behind schedule. After construction is completed, Vlore Airport will quickly become the main entry point for tourists arriving in the south and the beaches of the Albanian Riviera. The launch of regular and charter flights is expected in 2026 (the main stage falls in the autumn season). When it opens, it will connect the southern coast of Albania with Europe, cutting travel time to popular resorts (Saranda, Himare, Butrint) by more than 3 hours compared to the route via Tirana.
Ferry from Italy
Another option you can consider, for example if you live in France, is a ferry across the Adriatic Sea from Italy. They operate between Bari and Durres (7-10 hours en route) and Brindisi and Vlore (6-8 hours), costing about 55 euros one way. There are night ferries—it’s convenient and not too hot in summer.
How to get around Albania?
With your own car it’s all clear—have a Green Card for the entire stay and travel freely around the country.
Car rental solves logistics when traveling from north to south (and vice versa) in Albania. Of course, you can take a bus to get from Tirana airport to the sea, but you won’t see other places by bus.
There are no passenger trains in Albania, so most trips will be made by buses and minibuses (Mercedes Sprinter or Ford Transit), or you must order a transfer—taxi. Large buses run long distances between big cities, minibuses—between cities and villages, picking up passengers as they go. This is an interesting and affordable way to get around, operating regularly every day on key routes. However, planning may be somewhat difficult due to the absence of a nationwide schedule of minibuses, no guaranteed seats, and boarding/stopping points are often informal and unclear.
Tourist backpackers and slow travelers can fully get around Albania by public transport if they show a little patience and flexibility. A bus from Tirana to Saranda may take about 6 hours (by car, it’s 4 hours).
For more or less popular tourist routes in the mountains, there are transfers that can be booked online through a travel company, many of which offer such a service. We booked a transfer from Shkoder to Valbona, and from Theth to Shkoder. It turned out inexpensive, everything was on time, clean, and with good new buses.
Albania by car – everything you need to know before your trip
Our route from north to south Albania
I really wanted to see the Albanian Alps, and my daughter, who I was traveling with, loves the sea. Therefore, we decided to split the route into two parts: three days in the mountains, and four days by the sea. We spent some time on the road, as it takes time to travel from north to south of Albania.
First part of the route – northern: Albanian Alps
We arrived late in the evening at Tirana airport, rented a car there and drove to Shkoder for an overnight stay at a hotel. In the morning, we had a booked transfer from Shkoder to Valbona. That is, bus Shkoder–Lake Koman, ferry across the lake, and then bus to the Valbona valley.
Many companies offer such a transfer, approximate cost—30 euros per person. A very beautiful route, especially the part across Lake Koman.
Hike from Valbona to Theth
You can also reach Valbona by car via this route. We left the car in the hotel parking lot in Shkoder, as we planned to do the hike from Valbona to Theth through the pass.
Overnight in the Valbona valley, near the trail in a wonderful small bungalow Guest House Leka, whose owners offer a tasty dinner and breakfast (breakfast is included, dinner is extra and cost us about 2500 leks or 25 euros for meat, salad, beer, and a savory pie).
In the evening we managed to walk to the waterfall—a cascade about 20 meters high, located not far from the trail, a 20-minute walk.
More details: Hiking in the Albanian Alps: route from Valbona to Theth via Valbona Pass
And in the morning we packed up and went to the pass—800 meters up, then 1200 meters down to the village of Theth. This hike is very beautiful and very popular among tourists from different countries. The Albanian Alps are stunning, and the trail is marked, so it’s quite possible to do all 10 km of this hike in one day.
Overnight in Theth at a hotel with an incredible view of the mountains—at Royal Land there is a restaurant where you can have a tasty dinner. Breakfast is also included in the accommodation price.
In the morning, we walked around the village of Theth and at 11:00 took the bus to Shkoder, where our car was waiting in the parking lot. The minibus cost was 12 euros per person.
Conclusion: The Albanian Alps are worth at least two days—they are very beautiful and even epic. If you are traveling here in a rental car, remember that it is not possible to make a circular route by car.
So with your own (or rental) car, plan for more days—you’ll need to drive winding mountain roads, which takes time. Plan your route from Shkoder and back.
The roads here are in good condition (new asphalt to Valbona and from Theth back to Shkoder).
Second part of the route: Himare and the beaches of the Ionian Sea
Next, we headed to the south of the country—to the Ionian Sea. Of course, you can stop for a beach holiday in the north as well, for example, in Durres. This is a big city with large sandy beaches. But the sand here is gray, and several rivers flow into the sea, which are very polluted—with both natural and artificial waste.
Unfortunately, there is no waste sorting in Albania, nor a culture of not littering anywhere. Be prepared to see spontaneous dumps and a lot of plastic in the rivers everywhere. This greatly spoils the impression, but it’s true.
Accommodation in Durres is cheaper than on the southern coast. And getting there from the airport is much faster and cheaper. As an option with small children, it’s actually not bad. A taxi from the airport costs just 30 euros. But if you want a clean blue and transparent sea—you have to go south.
Albanian Riviera
For a sea vacation, we chose the small town of Himare, which is located on the so-called Albanian Riviera. Why exactly there?
The Albanian Riviera is still a semi-wild and sunny stretch of coastline where the Adriatic Sea gives way to the Ionian, and the mountains descend steeply into the alluring turquoise water. It stretches from Vlore all the way to Saranda and Ksamil. Here you can see beautiful bays, steep winding roads, and villages where time flows slowly.
Himare
Himare is a great choice for those who are looking for clean free beaches, a calm atmosphere without night parties, and the opportunity to stroll in the evening along the promenade, where you’ll find a variety of restaurants and cafes.
There are different beaches in Himare: municipal (fairly large) beaches and beach clubs for those who need sunbeds and umbrellas. Prices are moderate—10-15 euros for two sunbeds and an umbrella. Some beaches are very convenient for family holidays with beach clubs and modern tourist facilities.
We stayed at a hotel with an elevator and a sea view, 7 minutes on foot from the promenade. VIAL Rooms—this is a hotel, no kitchen. But we didn’t plan to cook as we were at the sea for only 4 days, not wasting time on it. There is a fridge and kettle with cups in the room. We asked for beer glasses—they brought them right away. Once every three days cleaning and towel change. Very clean, private free parking opposite the hotel. For those traveling by car, this is a very good option for reasonable money.
More information: Beach vacation in Himare, Albania
If you want to see hidden blue coves, you can rent a boat, or purchase (as we did) a kayak tour to see the most beautiful wild places and caves.
I wanted a quiet sea holiday in the morning and evening with no parties—Himare suited this request perfectly.
I liked that there are free umbrellas on the central municipal beach. And although there are only a few—most are the umbrellas of locals, who leave them on the beach and don’t take them home. But in the morning there were always free municipal ones.
Beaches in Himare
The beach in Himare is mixed: at first it’s sand, at the entrance to the water—small pebbles, a bit further in it’s large pebbles. So you need water shoes here.
There is another good free beach on the opposite side of the bay—Potam Beach. A large area is free, closer to the rock. Here as well, there are small pebbles at the entrance. A great spot for swimming at sunset. SUNSET Point is located right here via SUNSET Point.
What to try in Albania?
The local cuisine is simple, unpretentious, and based on local produce and seasonality. You’ll find plenty of traditional vegetable-based dishes—stuffed peppers, stewed beans, kifki rice balls, and baked eggplants with tomato sauce. But meat, especially grilled lamb and beef, dominates many menus.
By the coast, you’ll always find a simple restaurant with grilled fish and seafood.
When traveling by car, you’re bound to see roasted corn for sale by the roadside on non-highway roads, melons, or fresh watermelons. In greengrocers we bought peaches, and very tasty figs.
Another staple is byrek (or burek)—a puff pastry pie usually filled with cheese, spinach, or minced meat. This is a favorite Albanian fast food, best eaten hot, bought from a bakery.
Italian influence is also common: pizza, pasta, and risotto are found on almost every restaurant menu. The pizza, by the way, was very tasty.
Desserts are usually baklava. And for breakfast, they serve local pancakes, fig jam, and honey. I was surprised that honey is even added to the Albanian omelet with tomatoes (very strange).
Albania is also developing as a wine producer, but at restaurants we were served very poor wine. It’s better to order rakia.
Restaurants I can recommend in Himare:
- Qofte te daja – a small tavern near Potam Beach, they make inexpensive and tasty kebabs and shashlik. Friendly owner, family business—which is traditional in Albania. Cash only.
- Valo’s Fish Taverna – inexpensive fresh seafood grilled or fried in batter. Fast service, often all tables are occupied, you can book in advance. Cash only.
- Grill Master Himara – a new place, opened in summer 2026, trying their best. Tasty seafood, except the octopus—it was overcooked, card payment accepted.
- Pastiçeri Delight – good coffee, cakes, pastries. You can sit at a table or take away, card payment accepted.
- Pizzeria “Napoli” Himarë – tasty pizza, you can eat in or take out, card payment accepted.
Supermarkets where you can pay by card in Himare:
- Alpha Supermarket – right in the center, the selection is small but everything you need is available.
- Market Himara – good selection of products, vegetables, fruits, ice cream.
Is it cheap to vacation in Albania?
Honestly, this is no longer the “cheap” destination you heard about a few years ago. Yes, it’s still cheaper in Albania than in Italy or France. A bit cheaper than in Croatia. But compared to prices in Spain—almost the same.
Albania has been constantly advertised and discussed over the past five years as a “cheap” holiday option or a budget alternative to the Greek islands. But “cheap” is a relative and subjective concept, both for travelers and among locals and visitors. But when they say “cheap”, unrealistic expectations arise as to what you can really see in Albania.
You should not treat Albania as a budget version of Corfu or Crete—it is a country with its own character, appeal, culture, and peculiarities, which is still adapting to the demands and realities of mass tourism. The narrative of “cheap” also tends to ignore how prices are constantly rising in the most popular areas.
Our expenses in Albania
- Car rental – 300 euros with full insurance (I would not recommend renting a car without insurance).
- Accommodation in the mountains – 45-65 euros for bungalows and hotel rooms.
- Accommodation on the coast – 135 euros for three nights.
- Accommodation near the airport – 85 euros for a hotel near Tirana airport (for an early morning flight).
- Petrol – 90 euros for a full tank of fuel used.
- Tickets to Albania – booked in advance for 250 euros for two people.
- Restaurants and cafes + food in supermarkets – about 270 euros.
- Transfers in the mountains – 85 euros for two.
- Kayak tour – 60 euros for two.
- Transfer to/from Ukraine – 70 euros.
- Gifts – about 100 euros.
Useful articles and links:
- Rhodes in three days – how to have time to experience this island
- Santorini – an island guide for independent visitors
- Santorini – what to see on the island in three days
- Where to stay in Santorini—the best places and accommodation options
Car rental – DiscoverCars.com
Green Card and Travel medical insurance – HotlineFinance
Hotel and apartment bookings – Booking.com
