Porto Walking – three routes for walking around the city: the center of Porto and port wine warehouses, a route along the river and ocean, and a street art route in Porto.
Porto cannot boast of the gloss of the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. This city looks completely different – there are more abandoned buildings, there are not so many palaces. A local saying goes: “Coimbra sings, Braga prays, Lisbon is beautiful, and Porto works.” Yes, it is a city of artisans, winemakers, and fishermen. The wealth of the historic city was based on shipbuilding and the lucrative port trade.
But Porto has its own charm and appeal – I’m sure no other city in the world has this atmosphere. No wonder the historic center of Porto was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1996. And there is really something to see while hiking. I invite you to take a walk in Porto – for this I offer three separate routes through the city.
Practical information on walking in Porto
Walking around Porto is not easy because of its location on the steep bank of the Douro River. You will have to walk up steep slopes and numerous stairs. If this suits you, you will enjoy walking tours of this city.
It’s obvious that comfortable shoes for walking are a must – sneakers are a must! The walks can take several days, as you can add visits to museums and churches. And don’t forget the wine tour at the end of the day.
It is best to visit Porto in the fall or spring. In summer it can be a bit hot and there are a lot of people. In winter, in good weather, it’s great to walk around the city. We walked around the city for three days and I was very happy to bask in the Portuguese sun during the day. But in the evenings it is very cool here, because fog often settles on the river. It can also rain, and it’s not very pleasant to walk in the rain.
Route from the Old Town to Villa di Gaia
The route is 7 km long and takes the whole day
First half of the day and route – the train station and Freedom Square
Let’s start the route between the two shores of Porto at the most beautiful station in Portugal – São Bento, which was opened in 1916. It is the central station of Porto, although the appearance of this majestic building barely hints at its purpose. But inside the station is incredibly impressive. Do not miss the opportunity to explore its main hall, which looks more like a palace. The station’s lobby is decorated with azulejo tiles – more than 20,000 tiles reflecting the history of Portugal were used here. Very beautiful!
Then continue on your way to Freedom Square, and along the way you will see the Igreja de San António dos Congregados. This church, located on the side of the C. Bento, dedicated to St. Anthony. The façade has elegant Baroque features, including magnificent tiles by Jorge Colaso and João Baptista Ribeiro. The tiles tell the story of St. Anthony and the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Freedom Square (Praça da Liberdade ) is the main square of Porto, which connects the old town with its modern part. Here stands a 10-meter bronze equestrian statue of King Peter IV of the late 19th century. But most tourists look in the opposite direction – toward McDonald’s, which is located in a very atypical building for this type of restaurant. It was opened in 10991 in the premises of the former Imperial Cafe.
The same Art Nouveau design, which was very fashionable at the beginning of the 20th century, remained inside and out. An eagle flaunts above the entrance to the Poppy, and the interior is striking with a large number of mirrors and stained-glass windows, original chandeliers from the 1930s.
Churches and Livraria Lello bookstore
Carmo Church and the Carmelite Church
Then continue your walk to the Carmo Church and the Carmelite Church. The church belonged to the Barefoot Carmelite Monastery and the Carmo Church belongs to the Third Order of Carmo. The Carmelite Church was built in the XVII century and, as the name suggests, it was home to the Carmelite order. Both churches are separated by the narrowest street, Porto Casa Escondida, which is only one meter wide. The church has seven altars, and the exterior is decorated with white and blue azulejo ceramic tiles.
Livraria Lello
Then turn to Rua das Carmelitas – here, in the building number 144, is a cult place for Harry Potter fans. This is a wonderful bookstore called Livraria Lello, which is probably known all over the world. For over a century, Livraria Lello was the main showcase of Portuguese literature, helping to export it to the rest of the world. While other bookstores around the world are experiencing difficulties, Portugal’s Livraria Lello attracts more than a million visitors annually. There was a myth that this bookstore was often visited by J.K. Rowling, the author of the Harry Potter books, when she was teaching English in Porto. But she later denied it, although this did not affect the popularity of the bookstore.
Tip: Be sure to buy a ticket-voucher for a visit on the Livraria Lello website (8 Euros ) and be prepared for a queue to enter the store if you are traveling during the high season. Remember that you can exchange your voucher for a book or brochure. However, you will have to pay extra, because books here are much more expensive than the cost of entering the store.
Then continue the walk, going down to the Clérigus Tower to see the best view of Porto from it. You will have to climb 225 steps to reach the top of the tower, which is over 75 meters high. But it was worth it – the view of the city from here is absolutely stunning.
Afternoon – from Vila Nova di Gaia
And now we need to return to the Ponte D Luis I bridge, which connects the two banks of the Douro River – the city of Porto with the suburb of Vila Nova de Gaia. The Rio Douro is translated from Portuguese as a golden river. The river flows from north-central Spain to the Atlantic Ocean and is the lifeblood of the region. Traditionally, port wine was floated down the river in flat-bottomed boats for storage in the Port. But today, cruise boats make up the majority of river transport.
The two-story bridge of Dom Luis I, designed by Gustave Eiffel ‘s student and partner Theophile Seurig, is a symbol of the city of Porto. Its construction took place in the late 19th century, with the bridge being built next to the existing bridge it replaced. The granite pillars of the old bridge still stand on the Ribeira side. One of the outstanding features of the Ponte Dom Luis I is its two levels: one on top of the arch and the other suspended under it. Today, the upper level is home to Porto metro trains and a pedestrian walkway with an observation deck. Cars can drive on the lower floor and there is a pedestrian sidewalk.
Port wine warehouses in Vila Nova di Gaia
Cross the bridge to reach the observation deck near the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Monastery. It has a free observation deck with stunning views of Porto. Don’t miss this place – it’s worth the short walk up the hill.
Now, take the cable car down to the Gaia waterfront, a place where restaurants and tasting rooms of various port wine brands are concentrated. Porto is famous for its port wine, a rich fortified wine that matures in huge barrels in ancient cellars located along the southern bank of the Douro River. Buy a tasting tour – you won’t regret the variety of flavors and the wonderful atmosphere in the middle of an old cellar.
Tip: By the way, when you buy a ticket for the cable car, you will receive a ticket for a free port wine tasting. Tasting is a big word, but you can actually taste 50 grams of port in an old cellar.
End the evening by the Douro River, which reflects the lanterns and windows in the houses of the Ribeira district. It’s very romantic to sit on the shore, looking out at the calm waters flowing into the Atlantic Ocean.
Route along the Douro River to the beaches of Matuzinhos
The route is 10 km long and the travel time is 2.5 hours one way.
The first half of the route is along the Rio Douro
This route will appeal to those who are still dreaming of their first Camino de Santiago. While in Porto, you have the opportunity to walk the first section of the Portuguese Camino. It starts in the city center from the Porto Cathedral and leads along the Douro River to the ocean beaches. You can finish this pilgrimage-urban route in the Matuzinhos district, where the city actually ends.
Cathedral of Porto – Sé Catedral do Porto
The start is near the Cathedral of Porto – Sé Catedral do Porto. It is here that the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela begin their route. The cathedral is a historic Romanesque church from the 13th century that looks like a fortress. The cathedral’s terrace offers a magnificent view of the old town of Porto. The cathedral has two domed towers with a magnificent rosette under the central arch. The interior of the cathedral is lined with magnificent azulejo tiles. Later, in the 17th and 18th centuries, the exterior and interior of the cathedral was changed in accordance with the Baroque taste.
Along the river between bridges
Then descend to the Ponte D Luis I bridge, which connects the granite banks of the Douro River. Near it, on the Ribeira promenade , you can have a coffee in the morning to energize you to keep going. Ribeira is the old part of Porto, which our route passes by. Old tiled buildings with balconies draped with washed sheets. This is a very colorful part of the city, which is worth going into the narrow alleys and seeing how the locals live here.
Then the route goes a little away from the river, because you need to see it from a beautiful observation deck located in the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal park. This magnificent botanical garden, located on top of a cliff, is one of the most beloved places to relax in Porto. It has many green lawns dotted with fountains, sculptures, giant magnolias, camellias, cypresses, and olive trees. In fact, it is a mosaic of small gardens that open up little by little as you wander through the garden. The observation decks offer stunning views of the city and Rio Douro.
Then go down to the river again to see the Ponte da Arrábida bridge from below – it’s impressive!
The second half of the route is along the ocean
By the way, the route runs parallel to the rails of the old tram – if you’re tired, you can drive a few stops to get to the mouth of the Rio Douro, where the pedestrian path begins to run near the ocean. It is here that you can see the lighthouse – Farolim de Felgueiras.
Then the ocean beaches of Porto begin, and near them you can sit in a cafe with a beautiful view of the ocean. At the end of the huge promenade is the magnificent Jardins da Avenida de Montevideu park with fountains, galleries and flowering flower beds.
Further along the way, you can see the ancient defense fort Forte de São Francisco Xavier. Behind it is the famous Matosinhos beach – Praia de Matosinhos, where you can go surfing – one of the best surf schools in Porto, Surfing Life Club, is located here. One lesson costs 25 euros, which is not expensive to try to get on the board.
A wholesale fish market is located behind Motusinhos Beach, which has a large number of fish cafes and restaurants. It serves the most delicious and fresh fish and seafood. I highly recommend coming here to eat octopus , grilled sardines, tuna or salmon – the prices are a little cheaper than in the center of Porto, but the quality is excellent.
If you’re tired of walking, go to the nearest metro station (Matosinhos (Mercado)), which is located nearby. The train will take you back to the city center in 20 minutes.
Route – street art of Porto
The art of Porto has long gone beyond the galleries – it is everywhere in the form of graffiti and installations that can be seen just by walking around the city. Just a few years ago, the politicians in charge of Porto perceived urban artists who added color to the city walls as an annoying enemy. But then the attitude of city officials towards street art changed not only in Portugal and Europe, but all over the world.
Porto’s cultural leaders began to appreciate the contribution of graffiti and mural artists. The artists were allowed to restore the historic center of Porto, turning the facades of dilapidated houses and mansions into murals that are worthy of admiration and a separate study of Porto.
Over the past few years, the walls of the Port, shop fronts and abandoned buildings have come to life. They were decorated with amazing street art by some of the best street artists in Portugal. Walking around Porto, I found new murals and graffiti every time. So here’s a list of the ones I saw, and I used them to make a route through these works of street art.
Murals and graffiti of Porto
Half Rabbit, Bordalo II – R. Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 42 (Vila Nova de Gaia). Probably everyone has seen a photo of this rabbit installation, but not everyone knows where exactly it is located. This “Half Rabbit” is a work of the Portuguese artist Bordalo II, which stands on a street corner in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Don Quixote Mesc, Fyodor and Moz Rua de Diogo Brandão/Rua de Miguel Bombarda. This mural was made in 2014 and was actually the first legal graffiti in Porto.
Trindade, Hazul and Mr. Deo – Rua Alferes Malheiro/Rua do Bonjardim. On the wall of the garage near Trindade station, you can see two large-scale paintings. Hazul (left) prefers a very abstract approach, while the one on the right (made by Mr. Deo) created a more natural piece depicting his father holding a miniature model of the famous Clérigos Tower.
PERSPÉNTICO, Liqen – Rua Afonso Martins Alho/Rua das Flores. This mural is tucked away in a narrow alleyway off the popular and lively Rua das Flores near the São Bento train station. If you look up carefully, you will see this giant painting of a blue cat that covers the entire wall of a five-story building. It was made by a Spanish artist named Liquen, and it is probably one of the most famous murals in Porto.
Other morals and graffiti
MIRA, Daniel Aime – Largo de Artur Arcos along Rua Nova da Alfândega. If you pass by the square along Rua Nova da Alfândega in the Miragaia neighborhood, you can’t miss this magnificent mural. This impressive work, which covers the entire wall, depicts an elderly woman. It was created by the talented stencil artist Daniel Aime in 2015.
Virtus (Cooperativa Artística Árvore), Hazul – R.De Azevedo De Albuquerque 1/Passeo das Virtudes. This long, stretched mural depicting a faceless Madonna was created in 2015 by the famous street artist Hazul for the Escola Artística e Profissional Árvore art school.
While you’re walking around looking for street art, of course, look at other buildings, relax in bars and cafes, and admire the unique atmosphere of Porto, my favorite city in Portugal.
Useful articles and links:
- Road map in Portugal – from Lisbon to Porto
- Algarve – the best beaches in Portugal
- European wine routes
- Cheap accommodation in Porto
Find train tickets in Europe conveniently on Trainline
Booking of hotels and apartments – Booking.com
