Madeira in winter -travel planning, advantages and disadvantages

Tips, Pros and Cons, and a 7-Day Itinerary for Chasing the Sun

I have long dreamed of seeing Madeira and planned a trip to the island in winter. Why? Because Madeira has become a super popular destination in recent years, from spring to autumn, and especially during the holidays, there are a lot of tourists here. And I don’t like standing in lines for funiculars, to botanical gardens and especially I don’t like crowds at popular observation decks.

I always want to see a picture like on Instagram – everything for you and not a soul around. In season it is practically impossible even from early morning. But if you visit popular destinations, including Madeira, in low season, you can easily avoid all this.

So I will tell you my honest experience of visiting Madeira in winter. And I will also give you advice on how to get the most out of the beauty of the island and such a trip.

Hiking in Madeira – the best routes and visiting conditions

Why Visit Madeira in Winter?

Madeira is often called the “Island of Eternal Spring,” and winter here feels nothing like typical European winter. With temperatures hovering around 18–21°C during the day, lush green landscapes, and a relaxed vibe, it’s a perfect destination for those seeking a warm escape without the summer crowds.

Pros of Visiting Madeira in Winter

1. Mild Climate and the Chance to Swim

Winter temperatures are pleasant: 18–21°C during the day and 15–17°C at night.
Ocean water stays around 18–20°C, which is suitable for those who don’t mind a refreshing dip.
Great options for swimming:
- Calheta – artificial sandy beach with calm water.
- Machico – golden sandy bay, perfect for a swim.
- Porto Moniz Lava Pools – natural volcanic pools filled with ocean water, safe even when the sea is rough.
- Lido Bathing Complex in Funchal for a controlled swimming environment.

We swam on the volcanic black sand beach in Seixal, which is located in the north of the island, and there is generally more sun in the south, so bring a swimsuit!

2. Microclimate Advantage and Car Flexibility

These are very important points to consider when traveling to Madeira in winter. Of course, if you want to see as much of the island as possible. We constantly monitored the weather in different parts of the island and went to places where it was sunny. On the coast, the temperature easily stays around 19–20 °C during the day, and at night it is about 15 °C, which creates comfort for walking, hiking and even swimming in natural pools.

On our trip, the hike in PR8 to Cape São Lorenzo coincided with sunny weather, even when most of the island was in rain.

Madeira’s weather can change dramatically within 20 minutes. Rain in the mountains? Drive to the sunny coast.
Renting a car is essential for winter trips:
- It allows you to chase the sun by checking webcams and forecasts, then adjusting your route.
- You’ll also avoid waiting for unpredictable public transport on mountain roads.
For planning use:
- Windy.com – hourly forecast.
- Webcams Funchal Marina, Pico do Arieiro, Porto Moniz.

3. No Tourist Crowds

Most levada trails, viewpoints, and villages are quiet in winter, making your experience more peaceful (except during the holiday period).
Easier to get tables at local restaurants without reservations.
Accommodation prices can be 20–30% lower compared to summer.

4. Festivities in Madeira

Active Christmas and New Year’s decoration of Funchal, magical lights, festive atmosphere, Christmas trees and fireworks for the New Year.
It is especially interesting to see the festival “Noite de Mercado” – the night before Christmas at the Funchal market.

5. Affordable prices for a trip to Madeira in winter

In winter you can find discounts of up to 60% on accommodation – I advise you to do this on Booking.com – Madeira.
And also save on car rental or excursions.
The plane tickets cost us 120 euros both ways Rome – Madeira and back with Wizzair..
Car rental – more choice of cars €45 per day with car rental with full insurance. Accommodation from about €60 per night, €15 – €20 per person for meals in cafes and restaurants.

Cons and Challenges of Winter Travel

Unstable Weather
- It can rain in the mountains, and some trails may be slippery or closed due to landslides.That’s exactly what happened to us: fog or rain would suddenly appear on the PR8 route, and only in places was it sunny.
- In December, there are approximately 10–13 days of rain, with up to 115 mm of precipitation (Weather Atlas). You should carefully monitor the forecast, especially when planning mountain hikes.
Madeira has one of the most difficult airports in the world to land at. If there is strong wind at Funchal airport, planes do not landing, they are either sent back or to alternate airports in the Canary Islands or Lisbon. So your trip may be shortened by at least one day – this is exactly what happened to us, because we had to spend the night in Tenerife. Or if you are lucky – it will be longer, the airline provides a free hotel for passengers.
Shorter Daylight.
- Sunset is around 6:30 PM, so start your hikes early.
Closed routes due to landslides or repairs
- Especially PR1 Pico do Arieiro – Pico Ruivo. Check on official resources before going there.
Roads Can Be Tricky.
- Narrow, winding roads require good driving skills. Use a small car with enough power for steep climbs.
Less festive infrastructure after New Year’s
- У січні острів менш святковий, але це компенсує менше туристів.
Service restrictions on holidays
- On December 24–25, most establishments in Funchal are closed, although the “Noite de Mercado” holiday (December 23) is a special evening with traditions.
Public transport is not very convenient
- Low frequency of flights, four different operators, lack of interaction between them will require clear planning. That is, you can calculate a transfer from one company’s bus to another’s bus, but you haven’t investigated the schedule for that particular day of the week. It’s quite complicated and you have to wait many hours for a transfer.

But having a car made it much easier for us to move around the island, giving us speed and flexibility. Although some tourists who even drive are afraid to get behind the wheel in Madeira because of the very steep serpentines. By the way, renting with full insurance is much safer.

Tips for the Perfect Winter Trip

✅ 1. Use a Car to “Chase the Sun”

Check Windy, local forecasts, or Madeira webcams before planning your day.
If the north coast is cloudy, head south (Funchal, Câmara de Lobos, Calheta). If the south is rainy, try the north or highlands.

✅ 2. Be Flexible with Your Plan

Always have Plan A and Plan B for each day (sunny vs. rainy options).
Avoid long hikes if there’s a storm warning – choose lower-altitude levadas instead.

✅ 3. Pack Smart

Light rain jacket, hiking shoes with grip, and layers for sudden temperature changes.
Swimsuit, quick-dry towel, and optional wetsuit for ocean dips.

✅ 4. Book Accommodation in Two Areas

For flexibility, consider splitting your stay:
3–4 nights in Funchal or south coast for sunny days.
3–4 nights in north/west (Porto Moniz, São Vicente) for wild landscapes and less crowded trails.

✅ 5. Rent a compact but powerful car

The roads are narrow, with serpentines and steep climbs. The best option is a car with a 1.2–1.4 engine and an automatic transmission. Choose a car with sufficient power (not lower than class B, an automatic transmission is better – it will be easier on hills and serpentines), full insurance (CDW) is desirable.

✅ 6. Charge your phone and download offline maps

Google Maps and Maps.me are a must-have for serpentines.
Take a powr-bank with you to have enough charge on the road and on hiking routes.

✅ 7. Book accommodation with a kitchen

Restaurants close early, and after the tracks it is convenient to be able to cook a meal. Or a delicious breakfast in the morning. Use our strategy – to divide the nights (Funchal, São Vicente, Santana, Funchal). It allowed us to better cover the island. Try this planning principle: minimal transfers, maximum number of locations.

✅ 8. Buy groceries for the trip and hiking in big cities (Funchal, Santana, Porto Moniz)

✅ 9. Taste local dishes

Must try: Poncha, Espetada, Bolo do Caco, Peixe-espada com banana, Milho Frito, Carne Vinho d’alho and other Madeiran dishes – don’t miss it!
In Madeira, prices are inexpensive: lunch 15–25 €, beer ~2–3 €, Poncha/nikita ~3 €

✅ 10. Explore available festivals/nature events

Winter Walking Festival: Madeira Walking Festival in January. This is a 5-day walking event consisting of 20 of the most popular routes with 4 walks per day.
If you are traveling in December: Be sure to see the Marche dos Lavradores market, “Noite de Mercado” (December 23rd).
New Year’s Eve in Madeira. Funchal is the place to see an incredible fireworks display, considered one of the most spectacular in the world and entered the Guinness Book of Records. The fireworks stretch across the entire bay of Funchal, and when the clock strikes midnight on December 31st, the sky is lit up with fireworks from the south, west, east and north, making this one of the most magnificent and unforgettable shows of all.
Carnival is a traditional parade and one of the main events here in Madeira, where people from all over the world come to see the beautifully organized samba troupes that fill the streets of Funchal with music and dance.
For more information, see Madeira Live.

I advise you to read: Madeira – Itinerary for the 7 days

7-Day Itinerary: Chasing the Sun in Winter

This plan includes flexible options for sunny or rainy conditions.

Day 1 – Arrival and Funchal Stroll

Walk through Funchal’s old town, visit Mercado dos Lavradores.
Sunny bonus: Botanical Gardens or Monte Palace Tropical Garden (take the cable car).
Rainy alternative: Madeira Story Centre or wine tasting at Blandy’s.
- ✔ Alternative in case of rain: CR7 Museum, Madeira Story Centre.

Day 2 – Pico do Arieiro Sunrise & Levada Walk

Early drive to Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m) for a breathtaking sunrise.
Hike PR1 Pico do Arieiro – Pico Ruivo (or just explore the viewpoints if weather worsens).
Afternoon: relax in Funchal or Lido pools.
- ✔ Alternative: If visibility is poor in the mountains, we go to Levada do Rei or to the San Vicente Caves.

Day 3 – East Coast Exploration

Visit Machico (golden beach) and Ponta de São Lourenço for dramatic cliffs.
Lunch in Caniçal, visit the Whale Museum if cloudy.
Swimming stop: Machico beach if the weather allows.
- ✔ Alternative when it’s cloudy: Whale Museum in Caniçal.

Day 4 – North Coast & Porto Moniz Pools

Drive along the scenic north coast via São Vicente.
Stop at Véu da Noiva waterfall, then relax in Porto Moniz Lava Pools.
- ✔ Rainy alternative: Caves of São Vicente and volcanic center.

Day 5 – Levada do Caldeirão Verde

Sun → Levada das 25 Fontes (Rabazal).
Cloudy → Levada do Caldeirão Verde (less exposed route, comfortable in the rain).
If weather is bad: explore Santana traditional houses or indoor attractions in Funchal.

Day 6 – West Coast & Calheta Beach

Morning departure to Cabo Girão Skywalk (ocean view).
Walk in Camara de Lobos – Winston Churchill’s city.
Free time on Calheta beach.
Madeira wine tasting at the Engenhos da Calheta winery.
Angels’ Falls (Cascata dos Anjos) – it falls right onto the road, you have to see it with your own eyes!
Return via Ponta do Sol – one of the sunniest places on the island.
- ✔ Alternative in case of rain: Indoor swimming area in Lido (Funchal).

Day 7 – Chill & Departure

Quick stop at the farmers’ market for tropical fruit before heading to the airport.
Morning stroll in Funchal, grab souvenirs (Madeiran wine, honey cake, poncha set).

Quick Safety Notes

Avoid swimming on open beaches during storms. Stick to pools or calm bays.
Check levada trail conditions on official Madeira websites before hiking.
Morning: Check webcams on netmadeira.com or the Windy app.
If the forecast is cloudy to the west, head east (and vice versa).
Check for fog in the mountains: if visibility is poor, head down to the coast – it’s often sunny there even on rainy days.

Pro Tip for Photography Lovers

Sunrise at Pico do Arieiro and sunset at Ponta do Sol are must-shoot moments, even in winter.

Quick coordinates for navigation

Pico do Arieiro: 32.7358° N, 16.9281° W
Porto Moniz Pools: 32.8679° N, 17.1708° W
Curral das Freiras: parking near the observation deck
Cabo Girão: 32°39’26.6″N 17°00’18.6″W.
Ponta de São Lourenço: 32°44’35.8″N 16°42’05.6″W
Водоспад Ангелів (Cascata dos Anjos) :32°41’20.4″N 17°06’51.6″W
Miradouro da eira da achada (here)

Summary

A trip to Madeira in winter is a gentle warmth, dramatic nature, tranquility, atmospheric holidays and freedom of discovery. Take advantage of the season, plan your travel conveniently and be sure to take into account the unpredictable microclimate of the island.

I hope that my personal experience can become a good foundation for your future trip. And these additional tips will help make your next trip even safer and more inspiring.

Useful Articles and Links:

Car Rental – Affordable options are always available on the aggregator Rentalcars.com
Green Card and travel medical insurance – available online at HotlineFinance
Hotel and apartment bookings – Booking.com

Madeira in Winter: Complete Travel Guide

Why Visit Madeira in Winter?