Non-touristy Istanbul

Non-touristy Istanbul – six lesser-known districts of Istanbul with few tourists: hipster cafes, unusual viewing platforms, and where to see wooden Ottoman houses.

Colorful, vibrant, and noisy, Istanbul appears to tourists as a huge oriental bazaar. It is filled with ancient ruins, mosques, restaurants, and shops, and boats – vapurs – scurry along the waters of the Bosphorus.

But if you step aside a bit, the colorful flip side of this great city opens up. Here, ordinary people live, unburdened by tourist concerns. They have their own pace of life and do not aim to see all the sights in one day.

If you are in Istanbul for the second time, plan to visit very atmospheric but not quite touristy districts: Kuzguncuk, Balat, Arnavutköy, Karaköy, Kadıköy, Eyüp.

Kuzguncuk

In the cozy quarter of Kuzguncuk, you can walk among the wooden carved houses painted in bright colors. The streets and waterfront are lined with cozy cafes with a relaxed atmosphere, bright awnings, and tables along the cobbled streets. Non-touristy but so cozy, this district is the best place for breakfasts by the Bosphorus, walks, and photo shoots.

Things to do in Kuzguncuk

Firstly, see these bright wooden houses nestled on steep streets, some of which are exclusively pedestrian, like the descents in Paris’ Montmartre. They are located on İcadiye Caddesi. To take photos against their background, you need to wait for Instagram fans or brides who often come here for photo shoots.

Kuzguncuk is considered one of the multicultural districts of Istanbul: here, a Christian church, a synagogue, and mosques are neighbors. You can visit the Agios Panteleimonas Greek Orthodox Church here. In the middle of a small garden stands the magnificent Tower of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Panteleimon.

Besides the bright buildings, you will see cafes with bright awnings that add even more similarity to the district. Istanbulites, leisurely sipping tea and coffee here, squint from the dazzling sun. I enjoyed the pastries with coffee at Vanilin Chocolate (Kuzguncuk, İcadiye Cd. No:78) – a wonderful place in an equally wonderful building.

Atmospheric Hotels in Kuzguncuk

Kuzguncuk View≫ – The hotel is located in a great spot in Kuzguncuk. Many nice cafes are within walking distance. If you want to explore other parts of the city, take the bus or walk for 20 minutes to reach the ferry and metro.
Stunning Sea View Loft 5 min to Park in Kuzguncuk≫ – Great apartments with two bedrooms, panoramic windows, and a view of the Bosphorus. Located a bit uphill from the center of Kuzguncuk, but the view is unbeatable.
House with Garden and Bosphorus View in Kuzguncuk≫ – Incredibly cozy home with a view of the 15 July Martyrs Bridge. It has its own garden and a wonderful surrounding area.

Balat

Balat is a district located on the shore of the Golden Horn bay, beyond the Atatürk Bridge. It adjoins the old Greek quarter of Fener. Travelers rarely visit this former Jewish quarter on the European side of Istanbul.

Balat is one of the oldest districts of Istanbul, where the Jewish community lived after being expelled from Spain. After the earthquake at the end of the 1800s, most Jewish residents fled this district, leading to its desolation.

Today, it is one of the brightest districts of bustling Istanbul. The colorful houses of Balat are not decorations but painted homes of ordinary people. Walking through the steep winding streets or sitting in a cafe with a glass of tea, you can observe their lives. The district is constantly being renewed, becoming fashionable among travelers – there are colorful cafes, many grocery shops, and tailor and cobbler workshops.

Things to do in Balat

Start exploring Balat by climbing the hill that leads to the Red Castle – the magnificent Greek Orthodox high school Phanar. The red brick building stands on the border of two districts but is worth special attention. It was built in the 1880s and still functions as a high school with only 50 students.

Visit the Chora Monastery (Kariye Museum) – one of the few places where the original ancient Byzantine mosaic has been preserved. The main decoration of its interior is the frescoes and mosaics depicting the life and deeds of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.

Visit iconic structures that are open to visitors. For example, the magnificent 16th-century Church of St. George, or the Yanbol Synagogue, built in the 18th century by Sephardic Jews who relocated to Istanbul from Bulgaria. Nearby is the imperial Selim Yavuz Mosque, dating back to the 16th century, offering views of Istanbul and the Golden Horn from its inner courtyard.

Stop by the café İncir Ağacı Kahvesi – a welcoming establishment with rainbow-colored stairs where Istanbul families and tourists gather in flocks. For lunch, head to the wonderful café Balat Sahil, where you should try the meze – a traditional Mediterranean selection of appetizers that can be a challenge for 2-3 people to finish.

Walk along the historic street Vodina Caddesi among low old houses. Then move to the parallel Yıldırım Caddesi, where restaurants and small designer shops selling clothes, jewelry, art, and crafts are located.

Take a walk along the Golden Horn Bay: to see the bridges, feed the cheeky seagulls with Simits, breathe fresh air while sipping hot black tea.

Atmospheric hotels and apartments in the Balat area:

Balat Historical Luxury House≫ – the hotel is perfectly located in an area with a lot of restaurants and a local community where you can observe real Balat life. The apartments are conveniently located near bus and tram stops. Guests are offered a varied breakfast, and there is also a fully equipped kitchen, making it ideal for families or couples visiting Istanbul.
Waterfront Apartment – Stunning Terrace & Bosphorus View≫ – an apartment in Balat with a private terrace on the top floor offering stunning views with romantic lighting. There is a public transport stop in front of the building, and a ferry stop nearby. It is very easy and quick to get to any point in the city.
Historic Greek Pavillion Golden Horn Istanbul≫ – an apartment in an old building with excellent renovation, right in the city center. Located just a few minutes walk from the tram stop and a large park. The apartment is very clean, elegantly decorated in accordance with historical architecture, comfortable and equipped with everything you might need.

Kadıköy

Sailing to the Asian side of Istanbul by boat, you find yourself in a completely different part of the city – Kadıköy. There are also mosques here, few tourists, although there are plenty of backpackers – hostels and hotels are on every corner. Numerous cafes and cozy restaurants are adjacent to a small market, including a fish market where you can taste fresh fish and shrimp on the spot.

Tourists here are hardly noticed. Everyone is in a hurry, especially when you approach the pier, from where boats depart for the European side and other areas of Asian Istanbul. The bus station is also here, and dolmuses go to different areas.

What to do in the Kadıköy area

Walk along the promenade and the Moda quarter, enjoying views of the Marmara Sea. Moda is a hub of bars, restaurants, bookstores, music and antique shops, trendy boutiques, and tattoo parlors. There is even a special street of bars – Kadife.

If you are looking for great shopping and do not want to limit yourself to the Grand Bazaar, plan a stroll along one of the most colorful streets in the Moda quarter – Bahariye Caddesi. It’s easy to recognize – a historic tram runs on the tracks, and multicolored balls are installed along the sidewalks.

In addition, in the Moda quarter, an old tram No. 20 runs, which is worth riding to feel how the old meets the modern. You can reach the Moda promenade and walk along it, enjoying views of the Marmara Sea.

At the Kadıköy pier, there are many banks and Turkish fast food – familiar Simits, orange and pomegranate juices, köfte in buns. And of course “fish hamburgers” – Balik Ekmek. By the way, they are cheaper here than at the Eminönü pier. I liked the local version more: fish with salad in pita bread, not in a thick bun.

And at the intersection of six roads in Altiyol Square, a bull monument was erected 150 years ago. You can make a wish near this bull statue – they say that if you lose a bull’s horn, it will definitely come true.

It is worth going to the Kadikey pier, and if you have enough strength, to the most beautiful Haydarpaşa railway station, which once sent passengers to the east of Turkey. And now it has become a place for shooting feature films. In the evenings, the station is especially beautiful when illuminated at night.

Atmospheric hotels and apartments in the Kadıköy area:

Fabesco Suit≫ is a newly opened hotel located in the heart of the Asian part of Istanbul, surrounded by cafes and restaurants. Shopping streets are also very close by. The rooms are clean, have everything you need, including air conditioning.
Kadıköy Viva Hotel≫ is also a new hotel, has clean new rooms, located in the center of Kadıköy.
Otel Kadıköy≫ – the hotel has a great location near the vapuri pier in Kadıköy. From here it is easy to get to almost anywhere in Istanbul (5-10 minute walk to the ferry/bus/metro). There are various restaurants, cafes, bars and shops near the hotel.

Eyüp

The number of sights and interesting places in Eyüp is not as impressive as in the Sultanahmet area. But I still recommend visiting it to get a sense of the conservative neighborhoods respected by Muslims from around the world. And also to see a very unusual and beautiful view of the city.

Eyup is located on the European side of Istanbul and stretches from the Golden Horn to the Black Sea region. The historical sites of Eyup have the most important Islamic buildings in Turkey. At Eyup Cemetery, it was a great honor for many high-ranking Muslims to be buried here in the large cemetery.

Now Eyüp has become a thriving area outside touristic Istanbul. After 2000, local authorities implemented a restructuring of the urban landscape, equipping it with state-of-the-art infrastructure. Therefore, Eyup is now not only a respected place for Muslims, but also a desirable area to live and work. And for those tourists who want to escape from the usual attractions, it will also be interesting here.

What to do in the Eyüp area

Visit Pierre Loti Hill and the Eyup Cable Car to reach Pierre Loti Hill, a famous lookout point that offers stunning postcard views of Golden Horn Bay. The cable car goes up a hill 400 meters high, shortens the time of the journey up the mountain. It’s only a three-minute drive, but after walking up the hill, it’s worth going down to see the many historic buildings, including a cemetery and a famous mosque.

Reserve a seat at the hilltop café named after Pierre Loti, a 19th-century writer. Pierre Loti Cafe (Eyüp Merkez, Karyağdı Sk. No:20) has a great observation deck and offers a variety of food and refreshments, making it not a tourist attraction but a perfect place to relax and escape from the hustle and bustle of the city life.

Visit Ayyub Sultan Mosque and Ayyub Al Ansar Tomb. The 19th-century Eyup Mosque is even more important than the famous Blue Mosque in the Sultanahmet district because it was where the coronation ceremonies of the Ottoman sultans took place. The mosque, which contains the tomb of Ayub Al-Ansar, is open outside of prayer for curious tourists who want to look inside. During your visit, see the walls of the tomb covered with Iznik tiles.

Hotels in Eyüp:

Eyüp Sultan Hotel≫ – nice hotel in Eyup district, located close to Eyup Sultan Mosque. A good price for comfortable rooms with a nice view, but in this area you feel like a local.

Arnavutköy

The Arnavutköy district is located on the European side of Istanbul between the Bosphorus Bridge and the Sultan Mehmet Fatih Bridge. This name translates as “Albanian village” – according to history, in 1468, Sultan Mehmed II invited Albanian builders to build roads in Istanbul. The name, like in Odesa, streets Velyka and Mala Arnautska came from the Turkish name of the Albanians – Arnauts).

At that time, Arnavutköy was very multicultural and cosmopolitan, with Jewish and Armenian families as well. The mosque, synagogue and church standing side by side attest to the pluralism of the area.

But what sets Arnavutkey apart from other parts of Istanbul are its grand seaside residences. Tall and slender houses with different windows and multiple balconies, all made of wood and painted in muted peach, lilac and cream.

Чим зайнятися в районі Арнавуткей

Admire the Ottoman wooden houses. Their most striking feature is the decorative carving, which perfectly complements the use of horizontal timber for the facades. Here, it is best to come to Arnavutkei early in the morning, when the area has not yet woken up and thousands of Istanbulites from all over the city have not come here to drink tea or coffee in cozy local cafes.

Take a walk along the embankment. A dozen or more of the best houses in Istanbul can be found right here – on the Arnavutkoy embankment, separated from the embankment and the main road by a canal. Each house has its own mooring for a boat or yacht.

To the east of the quarter is the Taxiarkis Greek Orthodox Church (Arnavutköy Aya Strati Taksiarhi Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), which was built in 1899 from plaster and hewn stone. The golden-hued chapel is still an active place of worship, where the Divine Liturgy is celebrated every Sunday.

A few blocks closer to the promenade is the Arnavutköy Tevfikiye Mosque, built in 1832 and recently restored, with a high terrace with a great view of the Bosphorus.

Arnavutköy is also known for its restaurants that serve fresh fish. Small boats and fishermen ply a small section of waterfront in the neighborhood and sell their catch to the many seafood restaurants that line the waterfront.

Hotels in the Arnavutköy area:

Renovated Historical Manor≫ – if you want to stay in a wooden Ottoman house, this is the place to do it. This amazing Ottoman-era mansion in Arnavutköy is built of pine wood and decorated with Art Nouveau decorations. A cozy historic small manor house recently renovated and located in its center on a quiet street 100 meters from the town square and 2 minutes’ walk from the chic cafes and restaurants of Arnavutköy.
Charming Bright Modern Design 1bd Home #282≫ – the apartment is located on a quiet street in the heart of bright authentic Arnavutköy. 100 meters from the shore of the Bosphorus, all transport interchanges – ferries and buses, excellent cafes and restaurants are nearby.

Karaköy

The Karaköy quarter is located between the Galata Bridge and the Galataport cruise pier. In recent years, the territory of the former naval warehouses has turned into a quarter with many hipster cafes, art galleries and boutiques. Here you can see interesting graffiti and walk along the modern embankment in Galataport.

After lunch, stroll the streets of Karaköy, heading northeast from the bridge and eagerly keeping an eye out for street art murals. There is a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere here, it is good to drink coffee, wander through the alleys in search of street art, listen to street musicians, hang out in a pub, in general, you will definitely not be bored here.

What to do in the Karaköy area:

Visit the Karabatak cafe – the unofficial capital of Karaköy coffee culture. Here you can drink coffee, and not only in Turkish, but also third wave. And you can also see amazingly beautiful graffiti scattered throughout the block. Live music is played in the bars in the evenings. Take a glass of beer and hang out at one of the tables, listening to music, wrapped in a warm blanket.

Take hundreds of photos on Hoca Tahsin Street amid street art and colorful umbrellas hanging overhead.

It is in Karaköy that the Arab Mosque (Arap Camii), one of the oldest mosques in Istanbul, is located. And there is also a unique underground mosque – Yeralti Cami, as well as Kilic Ali Pasha Mosque and Tophane Fountain.

For dessert, go to the Karaköy Güllüoğlu pastry shop (Rıhtım Caddesi, Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4 Karaköy). Here they sell the perfect Turkish baklava, which has been produced by the Güllü Ailesi family since 1800. The store is located near the Karakei pier – just look around and see where the snake of tourists with branded handbags and boxes of baklava is coming from. Without a box of sweets, you are unlikely to be welcomed home, so go in and choose a kilogram of sweets – they will be vacuum packed, so there will be no leaks on the plane.

The cafe is located under a multi-level parking lot, but it is wonderful in the old way. First, find a free table and browse the menu of images. When you’re ready, go inside to place your order and pay at the vintage cash register.

Hotels in the Karaköy area:

Hotel De Reve Galata-Special Class≫ – Rooms have balconies overlooking the Bosphorus, great location of the hotel near Galataport, Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. The hotel has a rooftop restaurant where you can order breakfasts and romantic dinners with a view of Istanbul at night.
Ferman Port Hotel – Special Category≫ – The hotel has a great location very close to the Galata train station and ferry port, as well as the Galata Bridge, which is directly opposite. Clean and quiet rooms, decent breakfast, which includes a beautiful view of the Bosphorus.

How to get to Istanbul

Most airlines, as well as Turkish Airlines, fly to Istanbul’s new airport – Istanbul havalimani.
Pegasus arrives at Sabiha Gökçen Airport.

Recommendations for organizing a trip to Turkey

Rent a car – I highly recommend it, because without it, you will spend a lot of time waiting or adjusting your plans to public transportation. You can find the best option for a rental company on the aggregator Rentalcars.com – Here you can find a budget option and read reviews about rental companies.

Book your accommodation in advance – remember that in Turkey Booking.com is banned in Turkey, so it’s best to do it at home. Or use a VPN while in Turkey.

Do not neglect health insurance – on the EKTA you can buy insurance without leaving your home.

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