I considered Albania mainly because I once saw the route through the Albanian Alps. The sea and relaxing on the beaches of the Albanian Riviera were added later. And to be honest, the hike in the mountains impressed me much more than the Albanian beaches.
The hike over the Valbona Pass between the villages of Valbona and Theth became the brightest day of the whole trip. It was here that we realized why more and more tourists come to Albania not just for the sea.
Sharp limestone peaks, green valleys, crystal-clear streams, shepherds with herds of goats, and endless panoramas — this route can truly be called one of the most beautiful in Europe. At the same time, it does not require mountaineering training or special equipment. If you enjoy day hikes and are in normal physical condition, completing it is quite realistic.
In this article, I will tell you about our route from Valbona to Theth, how to organize the logistics, when is the best time to go, how much transfers cost, where to leave your car, and what you need to know before the hike.
Where is the Valbona — Theth route located
The route runs through the territory of the Albanian Alps National Park in the far north of Albania, almost at the border with Montenegro and Kosovo.
It connects two small mountain villages:
- Valbona (Valbona);
- Theth (Theth).
There is no road through the mountains between them. Therefore, the only way to get from one village to the other is via the hiking trail over the pass.
Today it is one of the most popular hiking routes in the Balkans.
Which route to choose
There are three main options for completing the route.
Full route from Valbona to Theth
This is the option we chose.
The total length of the trail is about 15 km. Most tourists complete it in 6–8 hours with numerous stops for photos and rest.
Personally, I found this direction the most comfortable: most of the tough ascent is in the first half of the day, and after the pass, there is a long descent to the Theth valley.
Full route from Theth to Valbona
This option is just as beautiful. Some even consider it easier due to the shorter but equally steep final descent.
It all depends on what is more convenient for your transportation.
Short route to the pass
If you don’t want to walk the entire trail, you can ascend just up to the pass from either Valbona or Theth, enjoy the views, and return back.
Such a hike takes about 5–7 hours and is great for those who don’t want to deal with complicated logistics between the two villages.
Our route from Valbona to Theth
We arrived late in the evening in Tirana, immediately picked up our rental car and drove to Shkodër for the night. Shkodër became our base for starting the hike.
We left the car in the hotel parking lot, as we planned to return after the hike from Theth.
Tip: The hotel in Shkodër North Alb Hotel has a very convenient location in the center of Shkodër, just 5 minutes from the square where transfers to Lake Komani and further to Valbona start. In addition, it’s very clean, and the owners are ready to meet you even at night. The hotel has its own parking where you can leave your car for two days – it costs 5 euros per day.
The next morning, we were expecting one of the most beautiful transfers in all Albania. The bus embarkation point is located here.
First, the bus took us from Shkodër to Lake Komani. Then we changed to a ferry, which crossed the lake (actually a reservoir) among high mountains. And after the crossing, another bus took us into the Valbona valley.
The cost of such a combined transfer is about 30 euros per person.
In fact, the trip on Lake Komani was an adventure on its own. The turquoise water, high cliffs, and narrow gorges are more reminiscent of Norwegian fjords than the Balkans.
We arrived in Valbona after lunch and stayed overnight in a small guesthouse Guest House Leka. The hosts cook delicious homemade dinners, and breakfast is already included in the accommodation price.
In the evening, we managed to walk to a local waterfall, located about twenty minutes on foot.
The next morning, we started the route.
How the Valbona-Theth hike goes
The hike starts very smoothly. The first kilometers go through a green valley, wooden bridges, and past mountain cafés. Gradually, the trail begins to gain altitude, enters the forest, and the views become more and more beautiful.
The main ascent leads to Valbona Pass, located at about 1800 meters. This is where the most famous panoramas of the Albanian Alps open up.
After a short rest, the long descent into the Theth valley begins. For us, this part turned out to be the most physically demanding. The descent lasts several hours and puts a good load on the knees, so trekking poles are very helpful.
In total, we gained about 800 meters of elevation during the day, and then descended more than 1200 meters. Despite being tired, every kilometer was worth the effort.
How difficult is the route
The route is considered of medium difficulty. There are no technical sections or a need for mountaineering equipment. The biggest challenge is the length of the hike and significant elevation change.
If you regularly go hiking or at least walk a lot, there shouldn’t be any particular difficulty.
There are many stops for rest along the route, springs with drinking water, and small cafés. Prices there are much higher than in cities by the sea. But all products are brought to the cafés either by donkeys or by hand. So it’s not surprising.
The trail is well-marked, so it’s quite hard to get lost.
When is the best time to hike
This is one of the most important points. The trail is officially considered safe only roughly from the second half of June to October. In spring, the pass often remains under snow, and some sections become very dangerous.
Unfortunately, every year there are accidents because tourists set out on the hike too early. That’s why you should not plan the route in May or early June, even if it’s summer weather below.
We did the route in the second half of June. There was already no snow on the trail, the temperature was about +22…+23 °C, although it was quite hot during the ascent.
No less comfortable times for the hike will be September and the first half of October.
What to take with you
Even if the route is not technically difficult, it should be taken seriously.
I recommend taking:
- trekking shoes – we hiked in trail sneakers with Vibram;
- 2–3 liters of water – water can be taken from springs or bought along the way;
- a snack or light lunch – the cafés on the trail offer hot burek pies, chips, drinks;
- sunscreen;
- a cap or bucket hat;
- trekking poles – extremely useful on the descent, especially where there’s scree, they saved our knees;
- a light windbreaker, as it might be cooler at the pass – we wore shirts so as not to burn the skin on our arms and neck.
Where to stay
We spent the night in two different places.
- In Valbona — in the cozy Guest House Leka, where the hosts prepare a great homemade dinner.
- In Theth — at the Royal Land hotel.
This hotel became one of our favorites of the whole trip. The balcony offers a fantastic view of the mountains, the restaurant cooks very well, and breakfast is also included in the accommodation price.
The next morning we had a walk through Theth village before taking the minibus back to Shkodër. The bus departs at about 11:00, and the ticket costs 12 euros per person.
After a few hours, we were already at our car and continued our journey through Albania.
I recommend reading: Albania itinerary – a week in the mountains and by the sea
How to get to Valbona and Theth
One of the first questions when planning a hike over Valbona Pass is how to organize logistics. Fortunately, it is much easier than it seems at first glance.
Option 1. The most popular — transfer from Shkodër via Lake Komani
This is the option we chose, and I can confidently recommend it to everyone going to the Albanian Alps for the first time.
Early in the morning from Shkodër, the tourist bus takes travelers to the pier at Lake Komani. Then everyone transfers to the ferry, which takes about 2.5 hours on one of the most beautiful routes in Albania. Upon arrival, a bus is already waiting for passengers and takes them directly to the hotels in the Valbona valley.
The whole route takes about five hours, but you definitely won’t be bored. The ferry passes through narrow canyons between steep mountains, and the water has an incredible turquoise color. Many tourists come here just for this boat trip.
The cost of the combined transfer is about 30 euros per person. The price includes the bus from Shkodër, the ferry ride, and the bus to Valbona.
This way allows you to hike the entire route from Valbona to Theth on foot and then return by bus back to Shkodër.
Option 2. By car
You can also get to Valbona by your own or a rental car. The road goes through scenic mountain passes and takes about four hours from Shkodër.
However, one feature should be kept in mind. After finishing the hike, you will end up in Theth, and your car will be left in Valbona. Because of the lack of a direct road between the villages, you’ll have to make a big detour or return the same way over Valbona Pass.
That’s why many tourists leave their car in Shkodër, as we did.
Option 3. Public transport
In the summer season, tourist buses and minibuses run between Shkodër and Valbona, and Shkodër and Theth.
It’s best to book seats in advance, especially in July and August, when the route is most popular.
Where to leave your car
If you’re traveling through Albania by rental car, it’s most convenient to leave it in Shkodër.
That’s what we did. After arriving in Tirana, we immediately rented a car, drove to Shkodër, spent the night at a hotel, and left the car in the hotel parking lot (written about above).
The next day we went by transfer to Valbona. After finishing the hike, we took the bus from Theth to Shkodër, which costs about 12 euros per person, and within a few hours were back to our car.
This option saves a lot of time and eliminates the need to return to Valbona for the car.
Should transfers be booked in advance
Definitely yes. In summer, the number of tourists is very large, so seats on buses and the ferry can run out several days before the trip. This is especially true for June, July, and August.
We booked all transfers before arriving in Albania, so we didn’t waste time looking for transportation on site.
Tips before the hike
During the day we met hundreds of tourists from different countries. Most were well prepared, but there were also those who clearly underestimated the route.
Here are a few tips to make your hike much more comfortable.
- Start the route as early as possible, preferably before 8 a.m. In summer it gets very hot after lunch.
- Take enough water. There are several springs and cafés along the route, but the distances between them are large.
- Don’t carry a heavy backpack. One small hiking backpack with the essentials is enough.
- If you have trekking poles — be sure to take them. They help a lot on the long descent.
- Don’t rush. The best part of this route is not the speed, but the chance to stop, look around, and enjoy the views.
What else to see after the hike
If you have at least one more day in the mountains, don’t rush to leave. In Valbona you can walk to a beautiful waterfall or take short walks through the valley.
In Theth it is worth seeing the famous stone church, the old blood feud tower (Lock-in Tower), the Grunas canyon and Grunas waterfall. Or take the hike to the Blue Eye (not to be confused with the Blue Eye near Gjirokastra). All these places are close to the village and easily accessible even without a car.
That’s why I recommend planning at least three days in the Albanian Alps: one day for the road, one for the hike itself, and another to leisurely explore Theth or Valbona. Believe me, after this, you won’t want to leave.
Can you do the route without special physical training?
Yes, but you need to realistically assess your strength. If you regularly walk, enjoy day hikes or at least sometimes go to the mountains, the route will be quite doable.
The hardest part is not the ascent itself, but the long descent to Theth, which can take three to four hours. It puts a lot of stress on the knees. If you have joint problems, it’s better to take trekking poles. And even if you don’t have problems — they will save your knees.
Can you do the route with children?
Yes. But of course, it all depends on the child’s age and experience. For active children aged 10–12 who have already hiked in the mountains, this route is quite realistic. With small children or babies, it’s better to choose a short mountain walk for a couple of hours and return back.
Is it worth hiking the Valbona — Theth route
Definitely yes!
Even if you came to Albania solely for the sea, try to allocate at least two days for the Albanian Alps.
It is here that a completely different Albania opens up — calm, authentic, without crowds of tourists and noisy beaches. For us, this hike became the main discovery of the country. And we left our hearts among the silver mountains of the Albanian Alps.
Useful articles and links:
- The Path of the Gods – where to hike on Italy’s Amalfi Coast
- Active travel instead of the beach: why I choose long routes and mountain hikes
- Mountains in the Czech Republic – where to spend an active weekend outdoors
Travel medical insurance and Green Card for traveling abroad by car – HotlineFinance
Hotel bookings and apartments – Booking.com
Car rental – DiscoverCars
