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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Northern Way, also known as the Coastal Way<\/strong>, starts its history from the 9th century. This was about the time when the remains of the Apostle James were found in Padron. Along with the French Way, it is one of the oldest routes to Santiago de Compostela<\/strong>. Historically, the first is considered to be the Primitivo Way (the original route), when King Alfonso was the first to walk it to Santiago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Northern and French routes appeared with very little difference in time. At this time, the Moors dominated the south of Spain, so it was safest for Christians to travel through the north of the country. Although it was easier to travel along the French Way, the Northern Way soon began to be used to reach Compostela. In fact, it was the safest way<\/strong> because it was far from the battles of the Reconquista<\/strong>, which were fought on the Iberian Peninsula at that time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The expansion and popularity of the Northern Way coincided with the expansion of the territories of the Kingdom of Asturias<\/strong>. With this expansion, the news of the discovery of the remains of Saint James quickly spread, and the number of pilgrims walking along the coast began to increase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 835 km \/ 32 days on foot<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n Camino del Norte<\/strong> is an 835-kilometer route across Spain<\/strong> that crosses four regions: the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia<\/strong>. The scenery on this Camino is simply fantastic: untouched sandy beaches, steep cliffs, emerald meadows, the Atlantic Ocean (the Bay of Biscay), wonderful historic cities and towns, and lush green eucalyptus forests. This route is a great alternative to the popular French Camino<\/strong> (Camino Frances)<\/strong>. Both routes run parallel: Norte goes along the coast, and the French Way \u2013 to the north, but inland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Of course, the indicated distance is official. It may change depending on the route options, or from the starting point where you begin your journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Camino del Norte was my second Camino de Santiago, which I walked in 2017, one year after Camino Frances (from Le\u00f3n to Santiago de Compostela) \u2013 I completed the first part of the French route in 2021 (I always do things the other way around). In my opinion, Norte<\/strong> was the most difficult of all routes I have walked: French, two Portuguese, and Primitivo. But also the most beautiful of them!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Remember<\/strong>, you can always adapt to the route and walk it according to your needs and how you feel at each stage. That is, if you get sick, or feel pain, or the weather is so bad that it is impossible to walk \u2013 you can always take a bus and travel part of the way. Because health is more important \u2013 without it you will not be able to walk the rest of the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I flew from Lviv to Madrid on a flight that landed at one in the morning. So I had to sit until six at the airport and then travel six hours by bus to San Sebastian. In the arrivals zone of Madrid airport there is a McDonald’s, where I spent the night, trying not to fall asleep. Around five I went to the bus station and then tried to sleep on the bus with the air conditioner on. It was summer – June, the air conditioner was working at full power – I still wonder how I didn’t get sick.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I was too tired to get to Irun (the town where the Camino del Norte starts), and I really wanted to see San Sebastian. So I decided to start my journey from here \u2013 from the wonderful Donostia<\/strong>, that is what San Sebasti\u00e1n is called in Basque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you start from Irun, you will immediately face a tough stage on the first day: two long ascents and descents on the way to San Sebastian. The first steep climb, which starts 3 km after Irun, is a gain of 250 m followed by a descent to Pasaia \u2013 a town located midway between Irun and San Sebastian. In Pasaia you cross the river by a small boat, it takes 1 minute. Then you face another steep ascent from Pasaya, a gain of 200 m followed by a descent into San Sebastian. But everyone who walked there says the views of the first day are incredible \u2013 one of the most beautiful days on the route. There will be several fountains to refill water along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n San Sebastian<\/strong> is a beautiful city on the Camino del Norte. It has everything a demanding traveler looks for: huge sandy beaches, the Old Town with a pleasant atmosphere, many pintxo bars and cafes. It is very hard to resist temptation \u2013 where else can you try fresh oysters in such a luxurious setting? Although Basque cuisine also has more affordable but no less tasty delicacies. Basque sandwiches with seafood, fish, vegetables, and wonderful sauces are called pintxos<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n This cozy and posh little town is located near the French border. Here you can more often hear French than Spanish. Basque inscriptions are duplicated everywhere in the official names of the Basque Country. That is why the city officially has two names: Donostia \u2013 San Sebastian (literally from Basque Dono (saint) + stia (the ending from Sebastian)).<\/p>\n\n\n\n The city seems to embrace the bay<\/strong> La<\/strong>\u2013Concha<\/strong>. From the two high hills on the sides of the bay, there is a wonderful view of the Bay of Biscay and the boulevard with the curve of a huge beach. The boulevard is the heart of San Sebastian: at dawn athletes run along it, during the day beach-goers fill the whole area, and in the evening, by the light of the lanterns, tourists satisfied with life stroll or sit in restaurants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I walked around the city and the beach, a bit tired, but still enjoyed the atmosphere of the city. I walked to the municipal albergue to buy a credencial (pilgrims’ passport) and put the first stamp in it. On the way back, I entered the cathedral, sat for a while and felt \u2013 right now I could fall asleep on this bench. Time to go to the hostel and get some sleep, because tomorrow is the start of my long camino along the ocean.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Distance: 26 km – San Sebastian \u2013 Orio \u2013 Zarautz \u2013 Getaria<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This is one of the most beautiful stages on the Camino del Norte. I left the hostel and headed towards the boulevard to walk along it once more. At dawn, there were many runners doing their morning jog. At the end of the boulevard I had to go up to climb the slope that rises on the left side of the city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first part of the walk between San Sebastian and Orio runs through woods and fields, there are two places where you can get water. If you are planning to do this Camino in the summer (as I did), be sure to start early in the morning to cover most of the way while it\u2019s still cool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On this day, you can spend the night in Zarautz instead of walking on to Getaria. But for me, that wasn’t enough kilometers. Besides, the walk from Zarautz to Getaria is very beautiful and easy. Most of it goes along the sea, with wonderful views of both towns. By the time I reached Zarautz, it was already quite hot, so at the beach I changed from pants to shorts and walked the rest of the way to the albergue on the outskirts of Getaria in them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Getaria is a small ancient town with a fortress towering on a high hill. The old town is very cozy, and there are several nice bars serving delicious pintxos. I first checked into the municipal albergue, dropped my things on the bed, put on my swimsuit and went to the Playa de Malkorbe<\/strong> beach. Getaria has a small beach compared to the huge beach in Zarautz. But due to a small lagoon, the water warms up better here in the summer. I was able to swim and sunbathe for a couple of hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the evening I went to the Old Town \u2013 to sit in a bar, try pintxos with crab, and have a glass of wine. That\u2019s how I celebrated my first day on the Camino del Norte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Distance: 22 km<\/strong>, Getaria \u2013 Zumaia \u2013 Itziar \u2013 Deba<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The first 5 km after Getaria there are no places to stop for food \u2013 make sure you have enough water and have breakfast in Getaria at a caf\u00e9 or at the hostel. I had breakfast in Zumaia, because I set off around seven in the morning and reached there just in time for breakfast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To see ocean views choose the alternative path on the map. After 5 km, you will reach Zumaia \u2013 another seaside town offering stunning views of the ocean and striped cliffs. Then the path went over hills, up and down \u2013 with vineyards and gardens. At one point on the road, I saw a goat with huge horns \u2013 he was watching me: would I be afraid to walk past him. I had to make a little detour \u2013 those horns could be dangerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After this, at the 9 km mark there is a bar, 200 meters before which I saw by the road a box of bottles of cider for 2 Euros. It was cold, and in the midday heat \u2013 so I left a two-euro coin in the box, took a bottle and went looking for someone to open it. At the bar, I met a couple of pilgrims \u2013 I asked for glasses for everyone and to open my bottle. They didn’t refuse \u2013 I treated everyone with cider and myself enjoyed this sour cold drink made from local grapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first half of the walk was ups and downs, hiking through fields and open areas, the second half a bit along the road (not very busy, but still a bit unnerving after cider) and then through forest. But around two o\u2019clock I reached the town of Deba, where I settled in the municipal albergue at the train station.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Imagine a small town\u2019s train station. On the ground floor, a ticket office and vending machines. And on the second \u2013 accommodation for pilgrims, who have come on foot and are washing themselves, washing their clothes, and drying laundry on ropes by the station. Colorful, right? Sure is!<\/p>\n\n\n\n That’s what happened to me: I went up to the second floor, paid the hospitero for accommodation, got a top bunk (all the bottom ones were already taken). And at night I slept under the roof, listening to the snoring and passing trains. Romance!<\/p>\n\n\n\n But after the walk I went to see the town, eat some tasty pintxos, buy something for breakfast and for the next day’s route. Because the next stage was through the mountains and I needed to buy food in advance so I wouldn’t starve during the mountain paths. I also went to the ocean, sat on the huge warm stones of the pier that protects the river mouth \u2013 also called Deba \u2013 from the ocean waves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 25 km: Deba \u2013 Ermita de Calvario de Maya \u2013 Olatz \u2013 Markina<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n In the morning it rained, but so lightly that I didn’t want to put on a raincoat and boots. I went in a fleece and sandals with thick socks. By the way, on this Camino I mostly walked in sandals, just changing the sock thickness depending on the weather and terrain (thicker in the mountains to not feel small stones). I only put on boots in heavy rain \u2013 just as wet, but they give better foot support, because walking in wet sandals is riskier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In Deba you need to walk another 1 km to get to the other side of the river. Then the hills and slopes of low mountains begin. Between Deba and Markina there are no towns or villages, except for a couple of restaurants along the way. I felt like a hedgehog entering and exiting fog. Almost all day I walked in the damp eucalyptus forested hills. In some places the forest was cut down, and it was very sad. I understand that eucalyptus is grown, cut, and replanted here for a reason.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I stopped at Zelaieta Taberna Jatetxea<\/strong> caf\u00e9 for breakfast \u2013 fresh hot tortilla with coffee were just what I needed at that moment. I warmed up and continued on. Several pilgrims were walking parallel, we overtook each other. But most of the time I was alone in the forest on wet dirt roads. But I made it to Markina, where I stayed at a monastery albergue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There is also an alternative option \u2013 you can walk an additional 7 km from Markina to the Zenarruza monastery and stay there overnight. Next day on the way I stopped at the monastery, but stayed overnight at the monastery in Markina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Because of the rain I hardly saw this town, located among the mountains. But on the way to the albergue I stopped in a rather interesting place. You will definitely walk past it \u2013 so I recommend looking inside the Ermita de San Miguel de Arretxinaga<\/strong>, in the middle of which there is a huge stone. This stone is impressive because it looks like a primordial altar, and the modern lighting only increases the eclectic effect of the styles and eras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Convento del Carmen albergue where I stayed overnight is very basic, but it has everything a pilgrim needs. Rooms for 6 people, showers, kitchen \u2013 they offer simple breakfasts, a patio that I did not enjoy due to the rain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 25 km: Markina \u2013 Iruzubieta \u2013 Bolibar \u2013 Monasterio de Zenarruza \u2013 Munitibar \u2013 Berriondo \u2013 Gernika<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n My things almost didn’t dry because it rained all night. I paid for a not very tasty breakfast at the albergue because I decided to leave early and faced a day ahead without bars or cafes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Again the trail led uphill into the mountains, where the very beautiful Zenarruza<\/strong> monastery is located \u2013 elevation gain of 250 m. If not for the weather, you could have seen lovely views from the hill where it’s situated. But I went into the monastery to see its ancient architecture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Further along the route, there were a few more climbs and descents, mud on the paths like the day before, but I had already decided to go in my boots because it was slippery in sandals. And it was the right decision \u2013 I even had to tackle wet slippery wooden steps, which are very slick in bad weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n But then the sun came out and I saw a wonderful old bridge that was built back in Roman times. I stopped to photograph it from the river.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Puente siglo XVI-ARTZUBI- Zubi XVI<\/strong> bridge is located 10\u201315 minutes before you enter the outskirts of Gernika. All pilgrims cross it, just as they did 700 years ago. For some reason it made such a strong impression on me that I still remember this place and the warm sun that came out in the second half of the day and lit up the bridge for me and this photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The entrance to Gernika is a long, somewhat tough descent, especially if, like me, you are in not-very-comfortable boots. I walked in the mountains for a very long time that day, so when I got to the municipal albergue there were no more free places. This was unpleasant, considering that hotels in Gernika are quite expensive. But the hospitalero gave me the address of a small hotel where you could get a room for 30 Euros (instead of 10 Euros in the albergue \u2013 now, of course, prices are different). Basically, this was a restaurant with rooms above the bar to rent to pilgrims. Fortunately, unlike the albergue, the hotel was right in the center\u2014so there were plenty of bars and restaurants nearby. And you could relax and enjoy walking around this world-famous town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I walked around the city, ate some pintxos in a bar, drank a glass of wine \u2013 Basque cuisine has become my favorite of everything I’ve tasted in Spain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gernika is the former capital of the Basque Country, which united all Basque people. It is here that the Basque tree is located, which, like the entire city, suffered in 1937, when during the Spanish Civil War Franco decided to destroy the Basque Country and its capital. In agreement with Hitler\u2019s Luftwaffe, he gave the order to bomb the city from the air. The operation opened the way for Franco\u2019s seizure of Bilbao and victory of his troops in northern Spain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The city was completely destroyed and then rebuilt. But Gernika remained a symbol of Basque freedom. Picasso dedicated his painting “Guernica” to this tragedy \u2013 a mosaic of this painting can be seen on one of the city walls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 33 km: Gernika \u2013 Larrabetzu \u2013 Lezama \u2013 Bilbao<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This is a long and difficult stage on the Camino del Norte. Many people split it into two parts, since it goes through the mountains and there are no bars or rest stops in the middle. The last 8 km are the industrial outskirts of Bilbao \u2013 factories and huge fences you have to walk along for several hours (if it’s too hard, unpleasant, or very hot \u2013 you can always take a bus).<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first half of the route is all ascents and descents. You’ll face a steep climb out of Gernika and a 220 m gain. Also, for the first 17 km, there are no places to stop and eat \u2013 take some snacks with you. I had breakfast in a cafe in Gernika, and on the way a pilgrim treated me to delicious cherries.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFeatures of the Camino del Norte route<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nFacts about Camino del Norte<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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How to Prepare for the Camino del Norte<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Day 0: Arrival in Spain and Overnight in San Sebastian<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSan Sebastian<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to stay in San Sebastian:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 1: San Sebastian \u2013 Getaria<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nGetaria<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to stay in Getaria:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 2: Getaria \u2013 Deba<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nDeba<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to stay in Deba:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 3: Deba – Markina<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOn this day, I and other pilgrims faced steep ascents and descents:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMarkina<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to stay in Markina:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 4: Markina – Gernika<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nGernika<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to stay in Gernika:<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 5\u20136: Gernika \u2013 Bilbao<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n