{"id":57349,"date":"2026-01-28T17:38:43","date_gmt":"2026-01-28T14:38:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.journeys6senses.com\/camino-mosarabe\/"},"modified":"2026-01-28T18:48:28","modified_gmt":"2026-01-28T15:48:28","slug":"camino-mosarabe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.journeys6senses.com\/en\/camino-mosarabe\/","title":{"rendered":"My Camino Mozarabe – The Way of Saint James through Andalusia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Camino Mozarabe is not the most popular route in Spain. But I really wanted to visit the South and combine the beauty of Granada<\/strong>, C\u00f3rdoba<\/strong>, Ronda<\/strong>, and Seville<\/strong> with a hiking trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why do I need this \u2013 to walk on foot? Previously, I just liked to “grind the earth with my feet”. Now \u2013 it\u2019s my way of preserving my psyche and health. After a hard winter, I needed to be somewhere warm, see beauty, and walk in the nature of Andalusia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes I really want to walk the popular Camino routes \u2013 Frances or Portuguese from Porto. But there are times when, on the contrary, you need to walk without extra communication with strangers. Only with my daughter, who is on the same wavelength as me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I got all of this on the Camino Mozarabe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

General Information about Camino Mozarabe<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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This Camino starts in the south of Spain \u2013 in Andalusia<\/a><\/strong>. You can start either from Almer\u00eda<\/strong> or M\u00e1laga<\/strong>. The trails merge before C\u00f3rdoba in the town of Baena, and then there’s a shared path to the city of M\u00e9rida<\/strong>. In total \u2013 it\u2019s almost 500 km, but if you have a strong desire, you can continue along the V\u00eda de la Plata<\/strong> route and reach Santiago de Compostela<\/strong> (about 1500 km).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Camino Mozarabe <\/strong> \u2014 these routes were restored by several Andalusian pilgrims’ associations with the involvement of regional and local institutions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Caliphate Route \u2013 from Granada to C\u00f3rdoba<\/h3>\n\n\n
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In many sections, the Camino<\/strong> Moz\u00e1rabe<\/strong> follows the same path as the Caliphate Route<\/strong>, where we often encounter markers with towers \u2013 the symbol of this part of Andalusia. This route from C\u00f3rdoba<\/strong> to Granada<\/strong> is for pedestrians and cyclists, aiming to popularize the Muslim historical and cultural heritage of cities that tourists usually just pass by.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We didn’t have many days, but the desire to hike in Andalusia<\/strong> was there. So, we chose a small and not too difficult segment of this route \u2013 from Granada to C\u00f3rdoba.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Route Landscape<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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In reality, more than 80% of the route between Granada<\/strong> and C\u00f3rdoba<\/strong> crosses olive groves. These are hills and slopes planted with olive plantations \u2013 you walk through them all the time. Vast expanses of olive groves<\/strong>, almost endless, covering everything your eyes can see. It feels like they never end: tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, or maybe millions of olive trees all around. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite the delicate beauty, the monotony of the landscape over many days becomes a bit boring<\/strong>. And along the way, when we saw a town in the distance, it was a joyful feeling that finally we saw a place where we could rest and have something cool to drink. After a week, we got a bit tired of seeing olives \u2013 I think it’s very beautiful, but as they say, too much!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The length of the route is approximately 150 km of gentle hills of Andalusia, except for the steep climb to the village of Mocl\u00edn (400 meters elevation gain over a distance of 5 km). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Between Granada and C\u00f3rdoba<\/strong>, most of the route goes along dirt roads<\/strong> (compacted or loose stone) and to a lesser extent along asphalt and secondary roads. There is also a short section of the national highway N-432 (Granada \u2013 C\u00f3rdoba \u2013 Badajoz), which carries a certain amount of traffic. You don’t have to walk much of it, but it’s very unpleasant, and there’s no alternative road. This national road has a wide shoulder, but here you must be very careful, especially when crossing it.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance Between Towns<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Another characteristic feature of the Mozarabic Way (between Granada and C\u00f3rdoba)<\/strong> is the considerable distance between towns<\/strong>, with intermediate sections where there may not be a single caf\u00e9 or a place to rest. You need to provide yourself with water and food, as there’s nowhere to get water, and there are almost no streams there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is very little shade<\/strong> \u2013 it’s pleasant to walk in the morning, but after 11 o’clock it’s hot. Not every stage has places to stop \u2013 that is, intermediate villages are not everywhere. Several times we walked 25 km without a single village. We carried water and food ourselves. There are no water sources here as on more popular routes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In some stages, you sometimes have to walk along the highway. Unpleasant. There are also stages where it is impossible to travel by bus because they do not coincide with the highway. You walk through fields all day. Not even a taxi would come if you get unwell. So you need to understand this and count only on your own strength.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Markings<\/h3>\n\n\n
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The route is marked<\/strong>: there are yellow arrows and posts. But because few people walk it, locals look at pilgrims with curiosity. Although bartenders here are traditionally more aware \u2013 they have no problem giving stamps, show you where to go if you lose track of an arrow in town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Accommodation<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Albergues<\/strong> are available here, but not everywhere. Prices in them start from 20 Euro per bed, sometimes donativo. A double room in a guesthouse \u2013 45-50 Euro, so there was no point for us to stay in albergues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Each stage is about 20-25 km between small towns, where you can find overnight accommodation, food, a pharmacy, a store, etc. Interestingly, each of these towns has its own fortress<\/strong> or castle<\/strong>. But along the way, you can spot the remains of watchtowers on the hills, which are also indicated on the Camino Mozarabe<\/strong> signs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Caf\u00e9s and Food<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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In stores, you can buy jam\u00f3n, cheese, bread, vegetables, and fruit \u2013 this is for snacking on the way. And if you stay overnight in apartments with a kitchen \u2013 you can cook hot meals. But such accommodation is more expensive than albergues and pensions. That’s why we looked for cafes that offer the Menu del dia<\/strong>, which costs 10-11 euros<\/strong> there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We ordered this set lunch every day, because there was nowhere to cook. But it’s a great reason to try various dishes of Andalusia<\/strong> \u2013 Salmorejo<\/strong> soup, oxtail, flamenqu\u00edn<\/strong>, fish or seafood \u2013 these are also often included in the dish of the day. Unlike the northern Caminos, local bars do not serve tortilla for breakfast. So with coffee, they may offer toast or a bocadillo<\/strong> with cheese, tomatoes, and jam\u00f3n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where to get the Credencial and whether stamps are placed there<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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We got the credencial<\/strong> at Monasterio Comendadoras de Santiago<\/strong>, but you can also buy it at Granada Cathedral. The price is 2 Euro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stamps<\/strong> along the route we got in bars and pensions \u2013 there were never any extra questions. The last stamps we got were at C\u00f3rdoba Cathedral \u2013 the Mezquita<\/strong>. But we weren’t planning to get the Compostela<\/strong> \u2013 we did everything simply for the memory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What to take on the Camino Mozarabe<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n
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We absolutely didn’t need a sleeping bag<\/strong> \u2013 we stayed in guesthouses with bedding and towels. But if you plan to stay in albergues \u2013 you will need one. It\u2019s better to take a light sleeping bag liner \u2013 it will be enough in the heat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the stretch between Granada and C\u00f3rdoba \u2013 trekking boots are not needed<\/strong>. Sneakers are enough. But if you plan to walk other parts of this Camino \u2013 you’ll have to climb mountains, where you need shoes that support the ankle. Trekking poles will also be needed in mountainous sections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Absolutely necessary<\/strong> \u2013 a panama hat, or sunhat, or cap, sunscreen and sunglasses. Here the sun can burn your head even in spring and your skin will burn even under clouds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other items<\/strong> \u2013 as for the classic Camino, you can read about it here: Camino de Santiago \u2013 how to prepare for the pilgrims’ way?<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Season \u2013 When is the best time to walk the Camino Mozarabe<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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This is the south, so you need to avoid the summer months<\/strong> to walk this path \u2013 it\u2019s really dangerous, as in summer temperatures often reach 40 degrees official temperature (in the shade). Along the long trails through olive groves the sun blazes<\/strong> and there is almost no shade. Even a walk in spring with air temperatures of +27\u201328 degrees in full sun is very exhausting. And with heat waves of ten\u2013twelve degrees more, it\u2019s dangerous for your health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The best time to go is spring<\/strong> \u2013 March\u2013April<\/strong>. We took the risk and went at the beginning of May \u2013 it could already be uncomfortable, but we were lucky with the weather, it was quite comfortable at +25 degrees, although even then it was hot.
In autumn<\/strong> \u2013 October<\/strong> will be a rather comfortable month for the Camino Mozarabe. In November and December, rain is possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dry heat<\/strong> is a powerful and quiet dehydrator, so even at moderate temperatures we must take enough water with us, drink often, even if we do not feel thirsty, and avoid alcoholic drinks, at least during the walking stage. Of course, a hat or cap<\/strong> is mandatory on this route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why Mozarabe?<\/h2>\n\n\n
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I really wanted to do this route in February 2023, but due to the loss of a loved one, I had to stay home. And in May it finally worked out and it was much better even though it was a bit hot. It was great that I walked this route not alone, but together with my daughter \u2013 it was much more interesting and not as boring as if I traveled alone among the olive hills of Andalusia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So \u2013 together with my daughter, we did part of the Mozarabic route from Granada to C\u00f3rdoba \u2013 from May 14 to 21. I really wanted to somehow combine the Way with historical and cultural impressions, and I had never been to southern Spain before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This Camino is very different from all the previous routes I have walked (Frances, Norte, two Portuguese ones). It was a bit of a test \u2013 stages of 20\u201327 km each, without intermediate villages, caf\u00e9s, or water. Not even benches to sit and rest. And as for shade, I won’t even mention it. Only endless fields of olive trees. That’s at best; at worst \u2013 right along the highway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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If you want to be alone \u2013 walk the Mozarabe )))<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Actually, we did see pilgrims \u2013 three Germans walked parallel to us and, at the end, we met another Frenchman and a Spaniard. No one else.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But I planned our route in such a way that the endless olive fields were balanced by our emotions from visiting Ronda<\/a><\/strong>, Granada<\/strong>, C\u00f3rdoba<\/a><\/strong> and Seville<\/a><\/strong>, which wouldn’t have been as spectacular without the Camino. It’s truly a great combination \u2013 a walking Camino and cultural sites at the beginning and end of the walking journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Route Stages<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Depending on the weather and physical ability (which was our case), the number of stages can be reduced or increased.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 0: Granada<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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We arrived in Granada by train from Ronda, where we rested after a difficult flight with an overnight layover in Milan\u2013Bergamo<\/a><\/strong>. We walked from the train station to the city center \u2013 we had booked a hostel in the Old Town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The plan was simple: see Granada in a day, get our credenciales, and most importantly \u2013 visit the Alhambra<\/strong>, for which I bought tickets two weeks before the trip. This is one of the most popular attractions in Europe, so getting a ticket at the ticket office in May is just unreal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We found the credenciales in the Monasterio Comendadoras de Santiago<\/strong>, from there we walked to the Alhambra, where we spent about 5 hours wandering the beautiful gardens and the Nasrid Palace. It’s a very popular place, but the unrivaled beauty of Moorish architecture is worth it \u2013 buy tickets in advance and see it all with your own eyes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n