{"id":55994,"date":"2025-12-15T23:19:53","date_gmt":"2025-12-15T20:19:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.journeys6senses.com\/trekking-mardi-himal-marshrut\/"},"modified":"2026-02-22T20:18:06","modified_gmt":"2026-02-22T17:18:06","slug":"trekking-mardi-himal-marshrut","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.journeys6senses.com\/en\/trekking-mardi-himal-marshrut\/","title":{"rendered":"Mardi Himal trek – the best route for beginners in the Himalayas"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Mardi Himal Trek<\/strong> is the perfect route for beginners and for those who don\u2019t have much time for trekking in the Himalayas. I completed this route with my husband in March 2021. Here I share info about the difficulty, distance, and cost of independent hiking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the ridge of Mardi Himal, you get some of the best views of the 8000er Annapurna<\/strong> and the most beautiful mountain in Nepal\u2014Machapuchare<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nepal travel guide \u2013 how to prepare for an independent trip<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

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The most popular beginner routes in Nepal are to the Everest Base Camp (EBC)<\/strong> and Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve already been to ABC<\/strong> and EBC<\/strong>, but in spring 2021 we only had two weeks to take a short route in the mountains and spend a little time in Kathmandu<\/strong> and Pokhara<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I chose the simplest and most vibrant Mardi Himal trek in the Himalayas<\/strong>. On it, I was able to feel my “high mountain muscles” again and immerse myself in the atmosphere of Nepal. Because I missed it, because I love this country with all my heart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Recommended reading: Trekking to Everest \u2013 how to organize a trek in the Himalayas<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Features of the Mardi Himal trek<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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This route is relatively easy\u2014maximum altitude is 4500 meters<\/strong>. All the ascents are fairly easy, classic Nepali trails and stone stairs<\/strong>. Only the descent from High Camp to Sidding<\/strong> is steep and tough on the knees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Overall, if it’s your first time in the Himalayas and you haven\u2019t hiked at altitude before\u2014Mardi Himal trekking is perfect for you<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi Himal<\/strong> is a ridge and a namesake peak in the Annapurna Massif. In fact, the Mardi Himal Range (ridge) is adjacent to Machapuchare. The summit of Mardi Himal (5587 m) is a neighbor to Machapuchare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mountaineers climb Mardi, while summiting Machapuchare is prohibited by law. Machapuchare<\/strong> is a sacred mountain for Hindus. According to legend, the home of the god Shiva<\/strong> is at its summit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And anyone who has hiked in the Carpathians and has some experience climbing and descending mountains can make it up the Mardi Himal ridge. It\u2019s even easier here because you don\u2019t have to carry a tent and food\u2014hot meals and accommodation are available all along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How hard is it for a regular trekker to climb Mardi Himal?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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But we\u2019re not mountaineers, just regular trekkers. So we wanted to reach only the Mardi Himal Base Camp, located at 4500 meters. In fact, there\u2019s no actual camp\u2014it’s a spot where climbers set up tents for acclimatization before the summit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In autumn, reaching Mardi base camp isn\u2019t difficult. The trail is dry and safe.
In spring\u2014you\u2019re unlikely to reach Mardi Himal BC without crampons. We didn\u2019t have any, so we made it as far as was safe, about 4200 meters. Beyond that, the steep snow ascent to base camp had deep snow and crust, you\u2019d sink and risk slipping down. So, in spring, you need gear for BC.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are overnight stays along the whole route\u2014mountain lodges, where you can sleep in an unheated room. They\u2019ll cook food, tea, and in the evenings you can spend time in a heated dining hall\u2014there’s wifi everywhere, but it’s not very stable. The purchased Ncell SIM did not get mobile internet\u2014there are not many towers in this part of the mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You need a permit for the Mardi Himal trek\u20143000 rupees ($25). We did this in Kathmandu, but there is also a Tourist Office in Pokhara. In spring 2021, we didn’t meet a single checkpoint on the way\u2014the Kathmandu Tourist Office said TIMS books weren’t needed, maybe because there was no one to check. We saved $20 each\u2014great. But now you need to buy them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to get to Mardi Himal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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From Kathmandu, you have to get to Pokhara\u2014the second-largest Nepali city, located at the foot of the Annapurna Massif. Buses run here (from $15)\u20148 hours on the road. Or you can fly in 30 minutes with a local airline<\/a><\/strong> (one-way ticket $84).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Pokhara, we took a jeep to the trek start\u2014$25. In the jeep with us were our porter and his friend\u2014the owner of a lodge at High Camp. On the way back we also rented a jeep to Pokhara, which cost $50. More expensive because the road was twice as long and tougher\u2014unpaved roads, crossing rivers by fording.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Note:<\/strong> If there are fires or haze\/clouds in the mountains\u2014flights are cancelled. This happened to us on our return from Pokhara to Kathmandu. We had to travel by land. We didn\u2019t want to interact with many locals (in early April 2021 a third COVID-19 wave went from India into Nepal), so for $120 we rented a jeep for two. In the end, the road took the same 8 hours as by bus. But the driver took us straight to the clinic for our PCR test (needed for the flight home), then to our hotel in Boudha. It turned out cheaper than flying, but just as hard as the bus.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Route to Mardi Himal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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Trekking in Nepal is something special<\/strong>: Numerous mountain trails are paved with stones, suspension bridges cross the gorges, and in mountain lodges you can sleep, take a shower and eat. You can also hire a porter\u2014this makes trekking in the Himalayas much easier. Cost per day is $15 + a tip (we gave 20%).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Duration of the Mardi Himal trek route<\/strong> \u2013 5\u20137 days, depending on participants\u2019 physical preparation and desire to add extra stops. There are two options, differing only in the return route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uphill<\/strong> \u2013 the general route: Kande (or Phedi) \u2013 Australian Camp \u2013 Deurali \u2013 Forest Camp \u2013 Low Camp \u2013 High Camp \u2013 Mardi Himal Base Camp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Downhill<\/strong> \u2013 two different routes:
1. High Camp \u2013 Sidhing<\/strong> \u2013 then by jeep to Pokhara
2. High Camp \u2013 Low Camp \u2013 Forest Camp \u2013 Landruk \u2013 Gandruk<\/strong> \u2013 then bus or jeep to Pokhara<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So\u2014you can do the entire route in 5 or in 7 days.
This means for a Nepal trip, two weeks is enough\u2014the two-week visa on arrival is the cheapest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 1: Kande (1730) \u2013 Gauda Kharka (2200 m) \u2013 8 km<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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In Pokhara we arranged a jeep transfer to the start of the trek. The owner of our hotel, where we stayed a night on Lake Side<\/strong>, drove us. We planned to return there after the trek, so we left excess baggage in the hotel\u2019s storage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tip:<\/strong> Don\u2019t carry all your stuff into the mountains \u2013 you can always arrange free storage at the hotel, especially if you plan to stay after the trek. Although our porter carried our things, we didn\u2019t want to overload him with dresses and shoes needed only \u201cin civilization.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After an hour, the jeep brought us to the village of Kande<\/strong>\u2014the starting point of the Mardi Himal trek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is an alternative start in Phedi<\/strong>. From here, the trail goes along a neighboring ridge (10 years ago we started the Annapurna Base Camp route<\/a><\/strong> in Phedi).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For beginners, I recommend starting the Mardi Himal trek from Kande. Why?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

From Phedi, the stairs go sharply upwards\u2014we were shocked by such a start. At Kande, it\u2019s much easier and more pleasant. The route starts through the village, then through rhododendron forest, the ascent is gradual and easy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a few hours climbing, we reached Australian Camp<\/strong>. There are a few hotels here\u2014you can stop for tea, use the toilet, then continue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next stop a couple of hours up is Deurali<\/strong>. Again\u2014locals don\u2019t live here (their houses are down in Tolka<\/strong>). Here, on a little plateau with a view of Annapurna, there are several lodges. We slept in one 10 years ago. This time in Deurali we had tea and went on\u2014it was only noon, too early for a stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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After that, the trail goes across the start of the Mardi ridge<\/strong>. Mostly through rhododendron jungle. It was a hot day, but still cool to walk since you\u2019re in the forest shade almost all the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By 2 PM we reached the lodge Hotel Green View Restaurant, Lovely Hill (Gauda Kharka)<\/strong>, built in 2020 and still without nearby competitors. The lodge is between Deurali<\/strong> and Forest Camp<\/strong>, with a great view of Annapurna South<\/strong> and Hiunchuli<\/strong>. 28.345118, 83.836318<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n

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In theory, we could\u2019ve continued, we had the strength. But it\u2019s better not to push hard on the ascent\u2014you need gradual acclimatization to altitude. Plus, this lodge had hot water (200 NPR per bucket\u2014less than $2), clean new rooms, a clean toilet in the yard, and an awesome swing with a sunset view of South Annapurna. And in the morning, beautiful pink light on the mountains for photography.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Room was 300 NPR ($2.50), meals\u2014lunch and dinner about 2000 NPR ($17). Wifi cost 200 NPR per person ($4 for two).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note<\/strong>: From Forest Camp<\/strong> you can hardly see Annapurna at all\u2014so there are no sunsets or beautiful dawn light. But there are many lodges there; in peak trekking season, you\u2019ll surely find free spaces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 2: Gauda Kharka (2200 m) \u2013 Low Camp (2995 m) \u2013 9 km<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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We got up at dawn, had breakfast, and started up. Today the ascent is 700 meters, but it’s just a gradual gain\u2014took about 6 hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a few hours we reached Forest Camp<\/strong> and stopped for tea. Saw a group of Ukrainian tourists. Greeted each other\u2014turns out at 10 am people were just packing and setting out. That’s what group hikes are like\u2014everyone takes ages and seven people wait for one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We continued on through rhododendron forest with some great viewpoints, from which we got our first views of Machapuchare<\/strong> mountain. Despite the lockdown, Nepalis are building new lodges\u2014the route is gaining popularity, especially with young Nepalis. To me it was surprising that Nepalis hike not only to make money off tourists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A group of Nepalis arrives\u2014five to eight people. They\u2019re all in new gear. Happy, excited to be hiking the mountain trails. They don\u2019t hire porters, and their backpacks are light. They don\u2019t mind sleeping with lodge blankets that haven’t been washed for weeks. We have sleeping bags and only use the blankets if it gets freezing at night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By 2 PM, we reached Low Camp<\/strong>, where you finally see Machapuchare<\/strong>. My favorite mountain, Fish Tail<\/strong>\u2014so beautiful!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We spent the evening in the dining hall by the stove, working on our laptops. Oh yes\u2014we carried them on our backs, because work never stops. Tolik had conference calls, I wrote texts. The lodge had a shower with hot water heated by a gas boiler, but the water alternated between scalding and freezing. I opted for wet wipes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For dinner they made us momo (Nepali dumplings) with potatoes and salad<\/strong>. The total cost for lodging + lunch and dinner was 3000 rupees ($25) for two.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 3: Low Camp (2995 m) \u2013 High Camp (3550 m) \u2013 5 km<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The morning was cloudless, Machapuchare rose in the clear air. Today\u2019s climb is almost 500 meters through blooming rhododendron forests giving way to alpine meadows. In autumn they\u2019re green pastures with grazing yaks<\/strong>. In spring, it\u2019s all covered in rust-colored grass along the trail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This day’s route is not difficult at all. We stopped a couple of times for tea, and despite the climb to 3500 meters<\/strong>, we weren’t tired at all. By early afternoon we reached a lodge at High Camp<\/strong>, dropped our things, and went for a walk\u2014enjoying views of Annapurna and Machapuchare, photographing yaks. We hiked another 100\u2013150 meters up so we\u2019d sleep a bit lower that night for comfort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In the evening, a large group of Nepali trekkers arrived and filled the lodge. The dining hall was warm and noisy\u2014tomorrow morning we\u2019d go up before dawn with them toward Base Camp. Or at least to the viewpoint at 4000 meters<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Costs in High Camp are higher than in lower lodges. Lodging \u2013 700 rupees per room ($6), food about 3000 rupees per day ($25). We spent two nights at High Camp\u2014a total of about $70 for two.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 4: Mardi Himal Base Camp \u2013 5 km round trip<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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We got up at 4 am to catch the sunrise at the Mardi Himal viewpoint<\/strong>. It\u2019s almost 4000 meters high, about 2\u20132.5 hours from High Camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our porter woke up too, wanting to go with us to show the way. We told him: \u201cGo sleep, don\u2019t worry.\u201d All our things stayed in the lodge, and we\u2019re adults\u2014we didn\u2019t need a guide, we knew the way. He was surprised but didn\u2019t argue\u2014we hired him to help with the big pack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A guide isn\u2019t really necessary on this route\u2014there are arrows and signs everywhere. With a little effort, you can carry your own gear. But we purposefully hire a porter, so a person earns money and we only carry a light pack with our laptop, first aid kit, and valuables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, we left the lodge first, headlights on our foreheads, backpacks with snacks and water. For two hours we walked the ridge; ahead we saw other trekkers\u2019 headlights, behind others followed. The trail is trodden, but in a few places with rocks we got confused\u2014went right and met a sleeping herd of yaks. The yaks were startled\u2014got up and moved off the path.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By 6 am we were in place\u2014climbed to the viewpoint and tea huts Lower View Point (3800)<\/strong>. At that moment the first rays of the sun appeared over Machapuchare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mardi Himal Base Camp<\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Dawn in the Himalayas<\/strong> is a phantasmagoria of light\u2014missing it would be a sin. See it once and your heart will always remain in these mountains. You\u2019ll keep coming back for more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We rested, enjoying the sunrise, then continued toward Mardi Himal Base Camp<\/strong>. On the trail from the viewpoint to BC, snow appeared\u2014covered with ice. It became steep and slippery. I climbed another 50\u2013100 meters (to 3900) and realized I couldn\u2019t go further\u2014started getting breathless and losing balance on the rocks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tolik and I decided to split up: he went to Base Camp, I waited by the tea huts. I went back, ordered masala tea, sat down, and watched his little figure shrink to a dot as he headed toward Machapuchare. I watched him for about an hour, until he disappeared from view. Then after about 40 minutes the dot appeared again on the snowy slope, gradually getting closer to me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Around me Nepali trekkers ran around\u2014having snowball fights, making a snowman, taking photos with the Nepali flag. Nepalis only see snow in the mountains\u2014a lot of them live all their lives in the lowlands near India and never see snow. It was fun watching grown guys and girls being as happy as kids.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wak\u0443 up early – for sunrise<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Tolik didn\u2019t get to Base Camp for the reasons above\u2014he crashed into the snow, slid on the crust. He reached the remains of a herders\u2019 hut, snowed in in spring. It was probably the Upper View Point<\/strong> at about 4100\u20134200<\/strong>. Higher was too risky without crampons, so he came back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I waited and at 11 am we started down to the lodge. On the way up we met a Ukrainian group. Again I was glad I don\u2019t hike with organized groups\u2014a lot depends on the leader, and people have different experience. You can dream a lifetime of seeing the sun rise over the Himalayas and end up sleeping through it because the group decided not to go for sunrise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By midday we were back at the lodge and ordered breakfast. There was no point in going down today\u2014we got up early and were a bit tired. We decided to spend another night at High Camp, watch the sunrise from the lodge in the morning, and then go down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 5: High Camp (3550 m) \u2013 Sidhing (1700) \u2013 8 km<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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In the morning, we packed up and set off down\u2014it was time for civilization, a shower, and work needed normal internet. We had to get to Sidhing<\/strong> by evening to catch a jeep to Pokhara.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We had enough time to walk two more days in the mountains\u2014go down to Landruk, stay overnight, then descend to the bridge and climb to Ghandruk<\/strong>. From there you go by cheap bus or jeep. But we\u2019d already visited Landruk and Ghandruk 10 years ago, hiking to Annapurna Base Camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So we decided to spend the extra days walking around Pokhara, working with a lake view, drinking good coffee, and ordering proper food in restaurants. Yes, we\u2019ve become picky: the food on the trek is bland, there\u2019s no shower, the internet is bad or absent. And we\u2019d already seen all the most beautiful things.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Way down <\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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So we headed down\u2014to Siding. 8 km in 8 hours<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How I hate going downhill\u2014and I dislike descending for a long time ten times more. Halfway we decided to rest on a buffalo farm. They made us masala tea with real, not powdered, milk. The difference is huge. The farmers\u2014a young man and his wife, a beautiful village girl. I asked for a photo with her\u2014she was very shy but agreed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On the way were rhododendron forests, which at the end of March this year were just starting to bloom\u2014late spring. The Himalayas were covered in haze from forest fires, and from this day on we didn\u2019t see snowy peaks again. After that, everything got overcast and planes even stopped flying. Unlucky for those who started after us\u2014hiking in that smoke isn’t very pleasant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lower down, my toes started to hurt\u2014the nails jamming into the boot. Then, on top of that, I stubbed my left big toe on a rock. I howled across the Himalayas as pain shot through. Walking got harder, my knees started to shake. Eventually we reached the top of the village\u2014there were dogs, then people appeared.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It was the Holi<\/strong> festival\u2014the Festival of Colors<\/strong>. Everyone was smeared and colorful. Village children were especially happy. I filmed them a bit and continued down to the bridge\u2014where our jeep to Pokhara was waiting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We took it back to civilization, and at the hotel said goodbye to our porter and his friend. We tipped both\u2014the guys, after a hungry year without tourists, were very happy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brief summary of trekking to Mardi Himal<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In five days, we climbed from 1700 m to 4000 m<\/strong> and descended back to 1700 m, covering about 35 km of mountain steps and trails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spent about $150 on food and lodging in the mountains<\/strong>, $75 on jeeps<\/strong>, $100 for porter and his friend<\/strong>.
Total: $325<\/strong> for two for the five-day Mardi Himal trek in the Himalayas (an average of $30 per person per day).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The whole two-week trip to Nepal cost us $2500 for two<\/strong>. This includes a flight from Odesa to Kathmandu on Turkish Airlines ($700 per ticket), local flights and travel within the country, hotels, mountain insurance<\/a>, restaurants, and extras along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When is the best time to go to Nepal?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The best time to visit Nepal is spring and autumn<\/strong>: during this period, there\u2019s little rain and it isn\u2019t yet cold in the mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spring<\/strong> \u2013 from late March to early May. In April, the rhododendrons start to bloom\u2014up to 3500 meters on Mardi, there are rhododendron jungles. When they bloom it\u2019s a riot of color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autumn<\/strong> \u2013 from mid-September to the end of October. In September, above 3500 meters, the alpine zone is all covered in green grass. Plus, no spring haze\u2014clear sky and no rainfall (as in summer).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Useful articles and links:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n