Setenil de las Bodegas is a very unusual and beautiful white village located inside a canyon, surrounded by caves, traditions, landscapes and gastronomy. One way to visit this beautiful village is to plan a two-day trip to neighboring Ronda which is the easiest and closest way to get here
The small white village has a unique location on different levels of the canyon with winding cobblestone streets between the rocks, the center of which is drawn into the gorge formed by the Trejo River.
One of the charms of the village is its houses nestled under the cliffs, its fantastic viewpoints from which you can contemplate the incredible views of the village, as well as its historical site and restaurants was my particular interest.
I propose to find out what to see and where to visit in Cetenil de las Bodegas during a one-day trip.
I advise you to read: A week’s itinerary in Andalusia – what to see in the south of Spain
Why is it worth visiting Setenil de las Bodegas?
Setenil de las Bodegas is a white village (pueblos blancos) in Andalusia but what sets it apart from countless other white villages in Andalusia is its unusual location. Most of the pueblos blancos are built on a hill, and Setenil de las Bodegas is literally built into the rocky outcroppings of the canyon that the Trejo Creek cut through. White walls and overhanging cliffs are really breathtaking!
A visit to the Setenil de las Bodegas gives you a real sense of immersion in Andalusia: interesting architecture, delicious food and wine, of this history, giving you the experience of dining, shopping and staying in one of these caves. dwellings built into rocky outcrops. You can wander through the streets of this unique village, discovering small alleys, churches, squares, etc. This tiny village, full of nooks and crannies, has only 3,000 inhabitants.
A little history
It is believed that the name Setenil de las Bodegas comes from the Latin “septem nihil”, which translates as “seven times no”. Seven stands for the number of attempts by Catholic rulers to retake the village from the Moors. The surrounding areas were also used for growing vineyards, and the caves were used as “bodegas” or wine cellars, which were used to keep the temperature cool. There is evidence that these caves and rocks were inhabited by troglodytes (cave dwellers) about 25,000 years ago. The locals still live like this, even though they have all the amenities, from a refrigerator to a TV.
It’s easy to see why settlements appeared in Cetenil de las Bodegas.
- First, the Treho River flows through the village, which is a valuable source of water.
- Secondly, the huge rocky outcrops meant that only the facade had to be erected for housing, not the entire building.
- In addition, rocky structures keep the house cool in the hot summer months. And the heat here in summer is insane, especially in recent years.
Getting to Setenil de las Bodegas
By car
The best way to get here is by car; in major cities and airports, you can book a car in advance. Setenil de las Bodegas is located in a mountainous area and the roads to Setenil will include serpentines with many turns on mountain roads. But in general, it’s easy to drive here.
Keep in mind that the roads in the city itself are very narrow and not really designed for cars. Therefore, you may not want to rent a large car.
Oarkings in Setenil de las Bodegas
The car can be left in any parking lot within walking distance, so there is no need to drive in the city itself. There is parking on San Sebastian Street, although it can often be full. Virgen del Carmen has dirt parking and the center is a 10-minute walk away. There is also a paid underground parking lot Parking Los Canos – costs 1.5 euros per hour.
By bus
If you are uncomfortable traveling on mountain roads, you can always take a day trip from the neighboring town of Ronda, where buses and trains run from Malaga, Cadiz, or other places on the Costa del Sol. That’s exactly what we did – we came to Ronda for two days to spend one day visiting Setenil.
From Ronda to Setenil de las Bodegas is a 30-minute drive away. Buses to Setenil are not frequent:
- Rhonda-Setenil: 8:45, 11:50, 13:30, 16:30, 18:00 on weekdays, 8:45, 13:30, 16:30 on weekends.
- Setenil-Rhonda: 7:15, 9:30, 12:35, 14:15, 18:45 on weekdays, 7:15, 9:30, 14:15 on weekends.
What to see in Setenil de las Bodegas
The main attraction here is the village, where apartments, restaurants, and hotels are truly built into caves and rocky outcroppings. There are a few key streets (calles) that you can’t miss.
Calle Cuevas delSol Street
Cueva del Sol is one of the most typical streets in Cetinje de las Bodegas. It is located in the lower part of the village, parallel to the Treho River. This is the main street, whose name translates as the Street of the Caves of the Sun. It’s full of shops, bars, and restaurants, and it’s a great place to try tapas or Andalusian flamenco. This street is located right next to the Trejo River, and it is usually very busy during the day when travelers come here.
Calle Cuevas delaSombra
Cuevas de la Sombra Street is located very close to Cuevas del Sol – you just need to cross the river over the bridge.
Cuevas de la Sombra is translated as the street of shadow caves. The name is given to the shape of a rocky ledge that covers the entire width of the street, creating a natural roof and a kind of tunnel between the facades of popular buildings on both sides. The cave houses began to be appreciated as a tourist attraction in the village. And many of them have already been renovated as rural guesthouses or hotels.
Observation platforms
- Mirador del Carmen – climb 93 steps to this observation deck, the stairs are steep, but the view is worth it.
- Calle San Sebastian – this viewpoint is the easiest to access and is located on one of the main streets.
- Calle Ventosilla Alta – this viewpoint is best reached on foot, as the street is quite narrow and there is no parking space.
- Mirador del Lizon – this observation deck is open around the clock.
The Mirador del Carmen observation de ck is one of the places in Cetenil de las Bodegas that has the best views of the city. As you climb the stairs (somewhat narrow), you will see a panoramic view of the village with all its beautiful white houses, the Torre del Jomenaye, the wall and the Encarnacion church.
In this place you will also find Church of Ermita de Ntra. Sra. Del Carmen, dating back to the 18th century. She is the patron saint of Setenil de las Bodegas, and festivities in her honor are held in mid-July, with a statue being carried through the city.
The El Lizón observation deck is also worth a visit. Here you will see a panoramic view that differs from the previous ones because of the perspective, as you can see both streets and buildings located at different heights.
Andalusia Square
After you’ve finished contemplating the views from the observation deck, you can continue walking through the beautiful streets of Setinil and get to Andalusia Square. This square is the heart of the upper part of the city, where you will find the City Hall and the Tourist Office. There are also several good restaurants and bars, which are best visited in the evening to see the city glowing with lights.
Visit the locals on Calle Herrería
Calle Herreira is translated as Blacksmith Street. This narrow street with stairs going up was probably once a blacksmith’s forge. There is also a small museum that you can visit. At the end you can find a plaque surrounded by blue flowerpots with a romantic text: “Kiss me in this corner” (Besame en este Rincon). For lovers, it is a good place to kiss.
You can also see invitations from the locals on this street. In Casa típica de Setenil – for 1 euro you can see the housing in the caves. It was very interesting, and we knocked on the door. An elderly man opened the door and showed us with an open smile how he lives here, what the kitchen-guest room looks like, and two bedrooms on the second and third floors.
In summer, the stone walls and natural roof keep the place cool. I wonder how they heat it in the winter, because the stones keep the cold for a long time – it can be damp.
Torre del Homenaje Tower
The Torre del Homenaje is a tower of the Old Fortress, built during the Islamic occupation and used as a defensive element by Christian troops. The main tower and the secondary tower that surrounded the entrance gate to the castle are still intact, today known as the “Torre del Homenaje” or “El Torreon “. Go up here, and on the way, take a look at the late Gothic church Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, built between the 15th and 17th centuries on the site of an old mosque. You can enter the church for free to see the statue of the saint and several temporary exhibitions.
Tips for visiting
- It takes half a day to visit this village, but it’s worth staying overnight. Cetenil de las Bodegas is becoming increasingly popular, more often among day-trippers. But it’s worth seeing this special place at night without all the daytime travelers to feel its wonderful atmosphere.
- Spend the night in one of the unique cave houses.
- For dinner with a view, head to Restaurante el Mirador on Calle Cjon.
- Get off the main streets in this village and discover all the lesser-explored places.
- Keep in mind that this village is located on different levels, so you will have to do a lot of climbing (up stairs and hills). Wear comfortable shoes.
- The village is well marked with signs, so you won’t get lost.
The best cave hotels in Setenil de las Bodegas:
- Casa Cueva Un Rincón en la Roca≫ – is a cool cave apartment with a very well-equipped kitchen and an ideal location in the center of the village.
- Casa Cueva El Puente≫ – This is not just a vacation home, it’s an adventure! Everything is very modern, clean and beautiful, but the most important thing is the atmosphere! Living in such a house is a miracle not only for children, but also for adults – to live in a real cave, but with nice beds and all the necessary amenities. And in winter, there is a cozy fireplace that adds a pleasant warmth.
- La Roca de Setenil≫ – The cozy house has a good location on the mountain, so the terrace offers a wonderful view.
What you need to travel in Spain
- Do not save on health insurance – it is convenient to buy it online on the portal EKTA. Treatment in Spain is not cheap, but for a small amount of money you can buy insurance with a coverage of 30,000 euros.
- Book your accommodation in advance – prices in high season in Spain, as in other countries, rise. Booking.com allows you to find discounted options, as well as book accommodation with the possibility of free cancellation.
- The best way to get to Granada is to buy tickets. The closest airports are Malaga or Seville. Then by bus or train. Or if you are planning a trip to other cities and villages of Andalusia, it is better to rent a car at Rentalcars.com – here you can find budget and more comfortable car options.
- I buy bus tickets in Spain on the website of the Spanish carrier Alsa.
- Квитки на потяги в Іспанії – на сайті іспанської залізничної компанії Renfe.
Useful articles and links:
- Cordoba, Spain – what to do and see in two days
- Perfect weekend in Seville – what to do in two days in the capital of Andalusia
- What to see for one or two days in Granada, Spain
- Barcelona neighborhoods – where to stay for tourists
