Ruta-del-Cares is one of the most famous hiking trails in the Picos de Europa National Park, between Asturias and León. This breathtaking trail, which includes paths carved into the rock, bridges, and caves, runs through the Cares River Gorge, known as the Divine Gorge.
The hike, which is twelve kilometers one way, takes about three to four hours. It is practically flat, only from Poncebos there is a sharp elevation change of 300 meters.
You can enjoy stunning views along the entire route. If you look up, you’ll see the peaks of the Picos de Europa, and if you look down, you’ll see the Cares River flowing along the entire path.
Ruta-del-Cares was not created for tourists
Ruta-del-Cares is one of the most popular hiking trails in Spain.
This mountain trail was once intended not for hikers, but rather to create a connection between the villages of Caín, Posada de Valdeón (León), and Poncebos (Asturias). It does not have a steep slope, but the dangers are unpredictable.
Ruta-del-Cares was opened between 1945 and 1950 so that workers of the hydroelectric power plant Camarmena had access to the water channels that reach the Caín dam (León), built between 1916 and 1921.
This was a complex project, involving more than 45 people. The road is cut into the rock, 50–60 meters above the Cares River.
The topography also led to its nickname – The Divine Cares Gorge. To move from one cliff to another, across the waters of the river, apart from bridges, about 73 tunnels had to be dug, many of which are concentrated between the second section of the trail and the last kilometer before reaching the village of Caín.
This is a mountain route, and if the weather is bad it can be very challenging. Water can carry stones away, and above you there may also be livestock that may dislodge rocks. After the fires in the summer of 2025, the rocks above the path have become unstable, and as a result, rockfalls have become more frequent. Because of this, the trail was partially closed. Now it can only be walked (September 2025) either from the Poncebos side (3 km) or from the Caín side (up to 2 km).
When is the best time to hike Ruta-del-Cares
The best time of year to visit is spring and autumn. Keep in mind that you are in high mountains, and at this time of year the weather is better, and the colors of nature are more impressive.
In summer, during holidays, it is crowded here, and if you want to park properly, it is best to arrive by 9 a.m. In summer, the heat and lack of shade increase the risk of narrow passages. The trail is more dangerous due to crowds.
It’s best to start early in the morning, and when taking photographs, it’s better to stop and not get too close to the edge. Here, unlike the well-known Caminito del Rey trail, there are no handrails or fence by the cliff.
I recommend reading: Caminito del Rey – My own experience of independently hiking the King’s Path
Technical features of Ruta-del-Cares trail
- Location: Caín (León) or Poncebos (Asturias). You can start the trail in either of these towns. Distance: 24 km (round trip) – 12 km (one way).
- Total time: 6-7 hours depending on your pace and stops.
- One-way time: 3–4 hours.
- Elevation difference: Caín (480 m above sea level) and Poncebos (215 m above sea level).
- Difficulty: Easy/moderate, almost no elevation change, but you must be in good physical shape to walk at least 12 kilometers.
Ruta-del-Cares Trail
This trail is the shortest ancient connecting route between the towns of Caín (León) and Poncebos (Asturias). You won’t get lost – just follow the trail along the gorge and enjoy the views, bridges, limestone sinks, and occasionally goats crossing your path.
You can start the trail in Poncebos or Caín, it doesn’t matter. If the Cares route starts in Poncebos, it’s a bit steeper. At first, you have to overcome a 300-meter elevation gain, which gradually rises over about 2 km. Since you need to climb to the Los Collaos point, which is located at 520 meters. From here, the route is almost linear.
If you start in Poncebos, about 600 meters from the start, you will reach a fork where you will see a trail that crosses the Jaya Bridge. The path passes a house of the same name. There, you should turn right onto the trail that leads to the Cares Gorge. There are signposts.
After the first 2.5 kilometers, a gentle climb begins for 2 km, then a descent until the trail becomes flat. Eight kilometers from the start of the trail, you cross the river via the Bolin Bridge, about 60 meters wide, which was built after the previous bridge, Trea, was destroyed by a rockfall in 1944. About 400 meters further, you again cross the river via the Chamois Bridge.
Then you walk about 4 kilometers and at the 12th kilometer you reach the village of Caín, where this trail ends.
Variants of Ruta-del-Cares passage
This is a well-marked trail, although you should be physically prepared, especially if you plan to hike both there and back.
For those who want to do only one way, there is a taxi service that connects the two towns via a road that has a distance between the two points of 105 km. There is no direct route between the two towns, and it’s a significant detour, which takes about two hours and fifteen minutes by car. But it is quite an expensive treat – about 150 euros for a taxi.
Another option, starting from Caín, is to walk 9.5 km to Los Collaos, the highest point of the trail and a recommended place to finish and return to the starting point. If you descend to the town of Poncebos, keep in mind that you will have to climb again to return to Caín. The decision depends on how your legs feel and whether you have the strength and desire to walk back.
Full route along the Cares river – 21 kilometers
A longer route starts in Posada de Valdeón (León), runs through Caín (León) and ends in Poncebos (Asturias) – or in the opposite direction. This is a long 21-kilometer journey, so it’s worth considering several options before heading for the full Ruta-del-Cares route.
The most popular option is to start in Caín and finish in Poncebos (12 km one way), stop for lunch, and then return to Caín, or vice versa. You can also start in Posada de Valdeón, stay overnight in Poncebos, and the next day return the same way.
The route is relatively easy if you are physically prepared, although it should not be forgotten that it is located in a mountainous area, so it is important to wear comfortable shoes.
Another great option is to start in Posada de Valdeón and finish the route at the border with Asturias, roughly halfway between Caín and Poncebos, and then return to the starting point. This way, you’ll walk Ruta-del-Cares and see the most spectacular part of the entire trail (the Caín area), without missing any of the beautiful views from Posada to Caín.
And let’s not forget that these are high mountains. The path is narrow in places with breathtaking views of the chasm. You will need to wear comfortable footwear, and if you are coming in summer, protect yourself from the sun and bring enough water to drink.
Where to eat en route on Ruta-del-Cares
You will not find any food or drink stalls along the entire Cares route. It is best to take everything you need with you in your backpack.
If you start the route early, you will arrive in Caín or Poncebos around lunchtime. This is the best option as the cuisine in the Picos de Europa National Park is very delicious.
In the case of Caín, the restaurants are closer to the trail than those in the Poncebos area. The price of dishes on the menu is about 15 euros. In the Caín area, you can find such dishes as cocido leonés and plenty of meat such as lamb or kid, as well as cured meats. These are the restaurants La Ruta, La Taberna de Caín, Casa Tino and Casa Cuevas.
In the Poncebos area, the specialty is Asturian fabada (bean stew) and, above all, cabrales cheese, a blue cheese with designation of origin (DOC), produced in this region of Asturias. For lunch, you can choose the restaurant at the Garganta del Cares hotel, the closest to the trail.
Is Ruta-del-Cares trail really dangerous?
The Ruta-del-Cares trail is objectively dangerous, as is any path in the mountains. Hikers have the abyss right next to them. If you fall, you will die in any case. On the other side, the slope may fall onto you.
Avoid visiting with very small children. They behave unpredictably and can fall into the gorge.
However, despite all this it is a relatively easy route if done wisely. It is necessary to consider how prepared you are for this route. There are people doing it for the first time, out of shape, traveling with children or poorly equipped. Under no circumstances should you walk this trail in flip-flops.
Another danger is that there is no water along the trail, and depending on the season it can be very hot in the gorge.
Where to stay overnight during a Ruta-del-Cares journey
Hotels in Poncebos:
- Hostal Poncebos ≫ – you will see this orange building as soon as you reach Poncebos. Very nice hostel – I stayed here for two nights. Very clean, inexpensive, private rooms with shared facilities. The price includes a very good breakfast.
- Hotel Garganta del Cares≫ – Convenient location, close to the bus stop. Nice rooms, clean, private bathroom, quiet.
Hotels in Caín:
- Albergue de Caín “El Diablo de la peña”≫ – a very nice hostel with beds in a shared room. Great atmosphere, more of a mountain shelter than a hostel. Friendly staff, comfortable beds, clean bathrooms. Good location at the end of Ruta-del-Cares and a good starting point for other one-day hikes. Good dinner and breakfast not included, but served outdoors. Beautiful mountain views and a great library with a selection of books, mostly in Spanish. Very good value for money.
- Hostal Casa Tino≫ – Excellent location in a picturesque village. Really nice, clean, modern rooms, large bathroom. Very comfortable and truly welcoming host and staff.
How to get to Ruta del Cares
The nearest airports to Poncebos are Santander Airport (SDR) in Cantabria, Asturias Airport (OVD) in Asturias, and Bilbao Airport (BIO) in the Basque Country.
To get to Poncebos, you first need to reach the town of Las Arenas (Arenas de Cabrales), located along the AS-114 highway.
From Las Arenas to Poncebos, it’s a 10-minute drive by car or bus via the AS-264 road.
During Easter week and from June to mid-October, access for private vehicles to Poncebos is restricted.
Buses run daily between the parking lots in Las Arenas and the start of the Ruta de Cares trail in Poncebos. For more information visit asturias.com. The cost is 1.55 euros one way, 3 euros round trip.
Due to the popularity of this route, I strongly recommend staying for 2 nights at a hotel in Poncebos to secure parking at the start of the trail and to ensure an early start for the route.
You can rent a car if you are planning a road trip at your arrival airport. I advise searching for options on Rentalcars.com – various rental companies are listed for each of the above-mentioned airports.
Tips for hiking the Ruta-del-Cares trail
- Wear appropriate footwear. Hiking boots or Vibram-soled sneakers are ideal.
- Take a light backpack with water and food, such as energy bars.
- The weather is very changeable, as you are inside the gorge. In summer, keep in mind it can be very hot, although it can also rain. Try to wear appropriate, comfortable clothing.
- The best time for hiking the Cares trail is from May to October. I walked at the end of September – the weather was wonderful – not hot, not cold.
- Don’t stray from the main trail onto other trails crossing with shepherd’s paths that are not marked.
- Do not go to the edge or take selfies by it.
- Don’t take young children with you. If you are traveling with children over seven, you should always keep them under close supervision and make sure they walk on the rock, not along the cliff.
- Dogs are allowed, but they must always be on a leash. Hold them, as they can fall or jump into the gorge after seeing goats.
- Mountain biking is prohibited.
Useful articles and links:
- Hiking in Madeira – the best trails
- 10 warm trails for winter hiking trips
- My Camino Finisterre – a quiet way to the end of the world
- Wild camping in Europe – where you can and where you can’t spend the night in a tent
Tourist medical insurance – online at the portal HotlineFinance
Hotel bookings and apartments – Booking.com
